Sekizan Zen’in (Kyoto Prefecture) Complete Guide｜History and Highlights of a Tendai Buddhist Temple Protecting the Front Gate of Demons at Mount Hiei Enryaku-ji
Sekizan Zen’in (赤山禅院) located in Shugakuin, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto City, is a Tendai Buddhist temple founded during the Heian period as a sub-temple of Mount Hiei Enryaku-ji. Revered as a protective deity guarding the front gate of demons (tamazuki no kamigata) of the Imperial Palace and as the temple enshrining Fukurokuju, one of the Seven Deities of Fortune of Kyoto, it has long been visited by many pilgrims. Known as a famous site for autumn foliage, the temple grounds are colored with brilliant red leaves in fall. This article provides detailed information about Sekizan Zen’in’s history, highlights, annual events, goshuin (temple seal) information, and access methods.
History and Origins of Sekizan Zen’in
Founding by the Testament of Jikaku Daishi Ennin
Sekizan Zen’in was founded in 888 (Ninna 4) by Anné, a Tendai Buddhist chief, following the dying wish of Jikaku Daishi Ennin. Jikaku Daishi Ennin, known as the third Tendai Buddhist chief, was an eminent monk who accumulated religious practice at Sekizan Hokke-in on the Sekishan Peninsula in Shandong during his studies in Tang China.
During his studies in Tang, Ennin is said to have received the protection of Sekizan Myojin (Taizan Fukujun), and after returning to Japan, he left a will to enshrine Sekizan Myojin in Japan in gratitude for that grace. Anné, receiving this testament, founded Sekizan Zen’in on the western foot of Mount Hiei, enshrining Sekizan Myojin as the principal deity, marking its beginning.
Relationship between Taizan Fukujun and Onmyodo
Sekizan Myojin, the principal deity of Sekizan Zen’in, refers to Taizan Fukujun (泰山府君), a deity in Chinese Daoism. Taizan Fukujun is revered as the god of Taishan, one of China’s Five Sacred Mountains, and is said to govern human lifespan; in Onmyodo (Japanese divination and cosmology), it has been venerated as an ancestral deity.
In Japan, influenced by Onmyodo, the faith in this deity as a god governing the auspiciousness or inauspiciousness of directions spread widely. Particularly, Sekizan Zen’in, positioned at the front gate of demons (northeast direction) of the Imperial Palace, has played an important role as the royal capital’s guardian temple and a temple of directional protection (hougai).
Relationship with Enryaku-ji
Sekizan Zen’in is positioned as one of the sub-temples of Mount Hiei Enryaku-ji. Sub-temples are small temples built within or near the grounds of large temples, functioning as retirement places for high monks or training grounds for disciples. Sekizan Zen’in, as a branch temple of Enryaku-ji, has preserved the teachings of Tendai Buddhism while cultivating its own faith.
Mount Hiei is known for the severe practice of the Thousand Day Circumambulation, and Sekizan Zen’in, too, is an important sacred site for Tendai Buddhist monks as a temple where “Sekizan Ascetic Practices” (赤山苦行) are performed.
Protecting the Front Gate of Demons of the Imperial Palace
The Meaning and Importance of the Front Gate of Demons
In Onmyodo, the northeast direction is called the “front gate of demons” (tamazuki no kamigata) and has been considered an inauspicious direction through which demons enter and exit. Sekizan Zen’in, positioned to the northeast of the Imperial Palace, sits precisely at this front gate of demons and has borne an important role in protecting the capital.
Since the construction of Heian-kyo, the city of Kyoto has been designed based on the thought of Onmyodo, with Mount Hiei Enryaku-ji positioned at the front gate of demons and Iwashimizu Hachiman Shrine at the rear gate of demons (southwest), with directional protection being emphasized. As a sub-temple of Enryaku-ji, Sekizan Zen’in plays a more direct role in protecting the Imperial Palace’s front gate of demons.
Sacred Monkey (Masaru) on the Worship Hall Roof
On the roof of Sekizan Zen’in’s worship hall sits a ceramic sacred monkey (masaru), holding an ornamental paper streamer and bell, facing toward the Imperial Palace. Monkeys have long been symbols of protection against evil, and due to wordplay where “saru” (猿, monkey) sounds like “sa-ru” (去る, to depart) and “masaru” (勝る, to excel), they have been revered as auspicious animals.
This sacred monkey corresponds with the monkey at “Saru ga Tsuji” (Monkey Corner) at the northeast corner of the Imperial Palace and serves a protective role for the front gate of demons. Visitors can look up at the sacred monkey on the roof from the worship hall, making it one of the highlights when visiting Sekizan Zen’in.
Faith in Directional Protection and Warding Off Calamity
Sekizan Zen’in attracts many pilgrims seeking protection as a deity of directional salvation, particularly those moving, traveling, or building new homes. People from across the nation visit to pray for protection from directional calamities and for household safety and traffic safety.
Additionally, monthly prayers and blessings by a great Tendai Buddhist chief of Mount Hiei are performed, allowing pilgrims to receive blessings directly. These blessings are performed to pray for protection from calamity, healing from illness, and fulfillment of wishes, serving as one of Sekizan Zen’in’s important religious activities.
Fukurokuju of the Seven Deities of Fortune of Kyoto
The Seven Deities of Fortune Pilgrimage of Kyoto
The Seven Deities of Fortune pilgrimage of Kyoto is a pilgrimage visiting seven temples and shrines within Kyoto City, continuing a traditional practice from the Edo period. The Seven Deities of Fortune refer to seven divine beings: Ebisu, Daikokuten, Bishamonten, Benzaiten, Fukurokuju, Juroujin, and Hotei, and it is said that visiting these shrines and temples grants seven kinds of divine blessings.
Sekizan Zen’in is known as one of the Seven Deities of Fortune, enshrining Fukurokuju. Fukurokuju, derived from Chinese Daoism, is a deity governing three blessings: happiness (fuku), official stipend (roku), and long life (ju).
Characteristics of the Fukurokuju Hall
Within Sekizan Zen’in’s grounds stands the Fukurokuju Hall, where Fukurokuju is enshrined. Fukurokuju is characteristically depicted with an elongated head and white beard, typically shown holding a staff and scroll.
Pilgrims visiting for the Seven Deities of Fortune pilgrimage collect seals on specially designed color papers or treasure boat drawings at each temple and shrine. Sekizan Zen’in also distributes seals of Fukurokuju, with many pilgrims visiting especially during the New Year period.
The Deity of Commercial Prosperity: “Kakeyose no Kami”
The Birthplace of the Fifty-Day Payment System
Sekizan Zen’in also gathers faith as “Kakeyose no Kami” (a deity assisting in gaining favor). This derives from the “fifty-day payment system” (gojuu harai), a commercial practice beginning in the Edo period. The fifty-day payment system was a type of deferred payment arrangement where merchandise prices were settled fifty days later, spreading widely among Kyoto merchants.
This payment system is said to derive from Sekizan Zen’in’s festival day occurring every fifty days, and Sekizan Zen’in came to be venerated by merchants as a deity of commercial prosperity and fortune. Even today, business owners and self-employed individuals seeking commercial prosperity visit in pilgrimage.
Benefits of Commercial Prosperity
Sekizan Myojin, originally venerated in China as a deity governing financial fortune, is also believed in Japan to grant blessings of commercial prosperity and increased financial luck. Particularly, those wishing to start new businesses, open shops, or succeed in business negotiations visit in great numbers.
Highlights of the Temple Grounds
The Large Prayer Beads (Shounenjyu)
Within Sekizan Zen’in’s grounds stands a large set of prayer beads (juju). These prayer beads can be rotated by visitors while chanting sutras, said to dispel defilements and accumulate merit. The experience of rotating these large prayer beads is one of the pleasures of visiting Sekizan Zen’in.
The Jizo Hall and Fudo Hall
Various halls are scattered throughout the grounds, each offering different blessings. The Jizo Hall enshrines the Jizo of Safe Childbirth, gathering faith in child-granting, safe childbirth, and child-rearing. The Fudo Hall enshrines Fudo Myoo and is said to offer blessings of protection from calamity and relief from defilement.
A Famous Autumn Foliage Site
Sekizan Zen’in is known as one of Kyoto’s premier sites for viewing autumn foliage. From mid to late November, the maples and Japanese maples throughout the grounds turn brilliant shades of red and yellow, creating beautiful scenery. The foliage along the approach path and in the gardens is particularly spectacular, attracting numerous tourists and photography enthusiasts.
During the foliage season, visitors can enjoy leisurely autumn leaf viewing in the peaceful atmosphere of a mountain village. The relative lack of tourists allows for calm pilgrimage, which is also a charm of Sekizan Zen’in.
Annual Events and Special Days
Monthly Festival Days and Prayer Services
At Sekizan Zen’in, monthly prayer services and blessings by a great Tendai Buddhist chief of Mount Hiei are performed. These blessings offer pilgrims the valuable opportunity to receive prayers directly, petitioning for directional protection, warding off calamity, healing from illness, and more.
Loofah Blessing (Asthma Sealing)
One distinctive event at Sekizan Zen’in is the “loofah blessing” (hechima kaji), a secret Tendai Buddhist practice praying for the cure of asthma. Special prayer services and blessings using loofah are performed, with people suffering from asthma visiting from across the nation.
Prayer Bead Blessing Service
The “prayer bead blessing service” (shujyu kuyo), which honors worn-out prayer beads and rosaries, is another important event at Sekizan Zen’in. As worn prayer beads are believed to contain the devotion of their users, offering gratitude in blessing them is said to accumulate merit.
New Year’s First Visit
During the New Year period, the temple is crowded with pilgrims participating in the Seven Deities of Fortune pilgrimage. Those seeking Fukurokuju’s blessings visit for the New Year’s first prayer, petitioning for happiness, health, and prosperity in the new year. As the first three days of the New Year are particularly congested, it is recommended to allow ample time for your visit.
Goshuin (Temple Seal) Information
Regular Temple Seals
Sekizan Zen’in distributes seals of the principal deity Sekizan Myojin and seals of Fukurokuju, one of the Seven Deities of Fortune. Seals can be inscribed directly in your goshuin notebook as proof of your visit. The combination of powerful brushwork and red seals is beautiful and popular among goshuin collectors.
Specialized Color Paper for the Seven Deities of Fortune
For pilgrims visiting the Seven Deities of Fortune sites, specialized color papers and treasure boat drawings are available. By collecting seals at the seven temples and shrines, the completed color paper can be displayed in the home as an auspicious item.
Distribution Hours
Goshuin seals are typically distributed from 9:00 AM to 4:30 PM. However, during religious services or special events, service may not be available, so advance confirmation is recommended.
Access and Visiting Information
Basic Information
- Official Name: Sekizan Zen’in
- Location: 18 Shugakuin Karenebon-cho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture
- Buddhist Sect: Tendai
- Principal Deity: Taizan Fukujun (Sekizan Myojin)
- Visiting Hours: 9:00 AM to 4:30 PM
- Admission Fee: Free
- Parking: Available (free, limited spaces)
Access by Public Transportation
By Kyoto City Bus
- From JR Kyoto Station, take the Kyoto City Bus Line 5 toward “Iwakura Sosha-ba-mae,” get off at “Shugakuin Riekyu-michi,” and walk approximately 15 minutes
- From Keihan Railway “Demachi Masugata Shotengai Station,” take Kyoto City Bus Line 5, get off at “Shugakuin Riekyu-michi,” and walk approximately 15 minutes
- From Eizan Railway “Shugakuin Station,” walk approximately 20 minutes
From the Shugakuin Riekyu-michi bus stop to Sekizan Zen’in, you will pass through a residential area and climb a gentle slope. Directional signs are posted along the way, making it easy to find.
Access by Car
Approximately 30 minutes from “Kyoto East IC” on the Meishin Expressway. However, during autumn foliage season and New Year, roads in the surrounding area become congested, so use of public transportation is recommended. While parking is free, spaces are limited, and nearby paid parking lots may be necessary if full.
Nearby Tourist Attractions
Near Sekizan Zen’in are such famous sites as Shugakuin Imperial Villa, Manshu-in Monzeki, and Shisendo. Shugakuin Imperial Villa is a garden known as an imperial retreat and can be viewed by advance reservation. Manshu-in Monzeki is a Tendai Buddhist monzeki temple with beautiful gardens and fusuma paintings as highlights. Shisendo is a mountain retreat constructed by Ishikawa Jozan, offering seasonal scenery throughout the year.
Combining these tourist sites for a full day’s exploration of the Shugakuin area is also recommended. The site is included in the Kyoto Circuit Trail course, allowing for pilgrimage while enjoying hiking.
Pilgrimage Etiquette and Precautions
Proper Pilgrimage Method
Sekizan Zen’in is a Tendai Buddhist temple and has different pilgrimage procedures from shrines. Before the main hall, offer a light bow, then place palms together in prayer and offer sincere wishes. Unlike shrines, clapping hands is not necessary.
Photography
Photography within the grounds is generally permitted, but photographing the interior of the main hall or the principal deity is prohibited in some cases. When taking photographs, be considerate of other visitors, and confirm with staff if necessary.
Clothing and Belongings
As there is a gentle slope from the Shugakuin Riekyu-michi bus stop to Sekizan Zen’in, comfortable walking shoes are recommended. Particularly during autumn foliage season or in rainy weather, care must be taken as footing may be slippery.
Summary
Sekizan Zen’in is a historically significant temple with over 1,100 years of history, protecting the front gate of demons of the Imperial Palace as a deity of directional protection and enshrining Fukurokuju, one of the Seven Deities of Fortune. As a sub-temple of Mount Hiei Enryaku-ji, while preserving Tendai Buddhist traditions, it has answered the various prayers of people seeking commercial prosperity, protection from calamity, healing from illness, and more.
Known also as a famous autumn foliage viewing site, the grounds offer beautiful scenery in fall. Positioned in the quiet mountain village of Shugakuin, it offers the charm of calm pilgrimage away from the bustle of the city center.
Whether as part of the Seven Deities of Fortune pilgrimage or to pray for directional protection and commercial prosperity, please visit Sekizan Zen’in. A time of quiet prayer at this historically significant temple founded by Jikaku Daishi Ennin’s will will surely prove a special experience.
