Zuishinin (Kyoto Prefecture) Complete Guide | The Charm and Highlights of the Monzeki Temple Associated with Ono no Komachi
Zuishinin (随心院) located in Yamashina Ward, Kyoto City, is the head temple of the Shingon sect Zenjoji school, associated with Ono no Komachi, known as the most beautiful woman of the Heian period. The unique space where the dignity of a monzeki temple fuses with contemporary art captivates all who visit. This article provides detailed information about Zuishinin’s history, highlights, and access methods.
What is Zuishinin? History and Origins
Founding and History of the Temple
Zuishinin was founded in 991 (Shoryaku 2) by Priest Ninkai (仁海僧正), a Shingon sect temple. Priest Ninkai is regarded as the founder of the fifth-generation Ono school, and it was initially established as “Gyuuhi-san Mandala-ji.” Later, in 1029 (Chogen 2), the second head priest Masutoshi reorganized it as a monzeki temple, and it became known as “Zuishinin” as it is today.
A monzeki temple is a temple of high rank where members of the imperial family or the Sekkan family serve as high priests. Zuishinin is a venerable temple where members of the imperial family have traditionally served as high priests.
Deep Connection with Ono no Komachi
The land where Zuishinin stands is said to be the site of the residence of Ono no Komachi, a poet of the Heian period. Ono no Komachi is known as one of the Six Poetry Immortals and one of the Thirty-Six Poetry Immortals, and it is said that her beauty and talent attracted romantic interest from many nobles.
Numerous historical sites associated with Ono no Komachi remain within the temple grounds, including the “Cosmetic Well” where Komachi allegedly used water for her makeup, and the “Letter Mound” where she supposedly buried love letters received from Fukakusa no Shosho. These historical sites are valuable cultural heritages that convey the romance of the Heian period to the present day.
Main Highlights of Zuishinin
Main Hall and Kichijoten Kannon
The main hall of Zuishinin enshrines Kichijoten Kannon, the principal image. This Kannon statue is kept as a secret Buddha and cannot normally be viewed, but it can be seen during special exhibitions. The main hall was rebuilt during the Edo period and provides a serene space for quiet worship.
Genjikushoku Ume-kao Komachi-ezu (Sliding Door Paintings)
One of the greatest highlights of Zuishinin is the brilliantly colored sliding door paintings “Genjikushoku Ume-kao Komachi-ezu” created by contemporary artist Daruma Shouten. These paintings adorning each room of the front reception hall are contemporary art depicting the life of Ono no Komachi in vivid colors, bringing a fresh perspective to the traditional temple space.
The sliding door paintings in the “Noh Room” are particularly impressive, with pink, blue, and gold colors harmonizing perfectly with the historic architecture and leaving a striking impression on visitors. These paintings were donated in 2009 and symbolize Zuishinin’s new appeal as a fusion of tradition and modernity.
Ono Plum Garden and Famous Plum Blossoms
Zuishinin is known as one of Kyoto’s premier plum blossom viewing spots. The “Ono Plum Garden” within the grounds has approximately 230 plum trees and comes into full bloom from mid to late March. Various varieties of red plum, white plum, and weeping plum create a beautiful landscape announcing the arrival of spring.
During plum blossoms, the traditional event “Hanezu Odori” (Dance) is held, where local schoolgirls express the love story between Ono no Komachi and Fukakusa no Shosho through dance. “Hanezu” refers to a pale pink color, representing the color of plum blossoms.
Beauty of the Gardens
Zuishinin has multiple gardens, each offering different aesthetics.
Ono Plum Garden is, as mentioned, a garden where spring plum blossoms are beautiful. Plum trees are arranged across a spacious area, allowing visitors to enjoy the flowers while strolling.
Front Hall Garden is a dry landscape garden with simple white sand and pines, providing dignity and a place to calm the mind in silence.
Back Garden is a moss-covered garden where the beauty of green stands out. This garden displays different characteristics with each season, offering new discoveries with each visit.
Cosmetic Well and Letter Mound
Historical sites associated with Ono no Komachi are scattered throughout the grounds.
The Cosmetic Well is a well where Komachi is said to have used water for her morning and evening makeup. There is a legend that washing one’s face with water from this well brings beauty, and it has been a place of faith for women seeking beauty.
The Letter Mound is said to be where a thousand love letters sent to Komachi were buried. In particular, the tragic love story of Fukakusa no Shosho, who died after visiting for one hundred consecutive nights, has become the subject of many literary works.
These historical sites are precious relics that convey Heian-period love culture and the legend of Ono no Komachi to the present.
Annual Events and Activities
Hanezu Odori and Plum Viewing (Late March)
The most famous annual event at Zuishinin is “Hanezu Odori,” held during the plum blossoming season. Held on the final Sunday of March each year, local elementary and middle school girls gracefully express the love story between Ono no Komachi and Fukakusa no Shosho through dance.
The dancing of girls dressed in “hanezu,” pale pink robes, has become a symbol of spring in Kyoto, alongside the plum blossoms. Many tourists and photography enthusiasts visit on this day, and the temple grounds become quite lively.
Ono no Komachi Memorial Service (November 23)
On November 23, a memorial service is held on the day said to be Komachi’s death anniversary. This event comforts her spirit and honors her achievements.
Other Annual Events
- New Year’s Visit (January 1-3): The temple is busy with New Year worshippers
- Setsubun Festival (February 3): Bean-throwing and other activities are held
- Autumn Special Viewing: Special exhibitions may be held during the autumn foliage season
Viewing Information
Viewing Hours and Admission
Regular Viewing
- Hours: 9:00 AM – 4:30 PM (Reception until 4:00 PM)
- Admission: Adults ¥500, Junior High School Students ¥300, Elementary School Children and Under Free
Plum Garden Open Period (Early March – Late March)
- Hours: 9:00 AM – 4:30 PM
- Admission: Adults ¥800, Junior High School Students ¥400, Elementary School Children and Under Free
※Admission fees may change, so please confirm official information before visiting.
Closed Days
The temple is generally open year-round except during New Year’s period (December 29 – January 3). However, viewing may not be possible during services, so advance confirmation is recommended.
Access Methods
By Train
Kyoto Municipal Subway Tozai Line
- Get off at “Ono Station,” approximately 5 minutes on foot
From Kyoto Station, it is convenient to take the JR Biwako Line to “Yamashina Station” and transfer to the Tozai Line, getting off at “Ono Station.” Travel time is approximately 20 minutes.
Keihan Electric Railway
- Get off at Keihan “Shiguomiya Station,” approximately 20 minutes on foot
By Bus
When using Kyoto Municipal Bus or Keihan Bus, get off at “Ono” bus stop, approximately 5 minutes on foot. However, the subway provides more convenient access.
By Car and Parking
By Automobile
- Approximately 20 minutes from Meishin Expressway “Kyoto East IC”
- Parking: Free parking available (approximately 30 spaces)
During plum blossom season and event times, parking becomes congested, so public transportation is recommended.
Nearby Tourist Attractions
Kajuji Temple (勧修寺)
A monzeki temple located approximately 10 minutes on foot from Zuishinin. It is famous for its beautiful gardens centered around Himuro Pond, with particularly impressive iris flowers and water lilies in early summer. It is recommended to visit both temples together.
Daigoji Temple
A UNESCO World Heritage site and the head temple of the Shingon sect Daigoji school. Approximately 10 minutes by car from Zuishinin, also accessible by bus. Known as a famous cherry blossom viewing spot and famous for Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s “Daigoji Flower Viewing.”
Yamashina Canal
Part of the Biwa Canal, this walking path features beautiful cherry blossom avenues in spring. Located within walking distance of Zuishinin, it offers scenic beauty in each season.
Precautions and Etiquette When Viewing
Photography
Photography in the temple grounds and gardens is generally permitted, but there are some areas where photography is prohibited, such as inside the main hall. Please follow staff instructions regarding photographing the sliding door paintings. Also, be considerate of other visitors.
Dress and Belongings
Since you will walk on tatami mats and wooden floors inside the temple, shoes that are easy to remove and put on are recommended. In winter, the interior of buildings can be cold, so having something to wear over your clothes is advisable.
If strolling through the plum garden, it is recommended to visit in comfortable walking shoes.
Tips for Avoiding Crowds
Although Zuishinin is located slightly away from central Kyoto and can be viewed relatively peacefully, it becomes quite crowded during plum blossom season (especially on the day of “Hanezu Odori”).
For those wishing to view the temple quietly, it is recommended to avoid plum blossom season or visit on weekday mornings. The new green season and autumn foliage period are also beautiful and allow relatively leisurely viewing.
To Enjoy Zuishinin’s Charm to the Fullest
Recommended Visiting Seasons
Plum Blossom Season (Mid to Late March)
If you want to enjoy Zuishinin’s main attraction—the plums—this season is ideal. You can also see “Hanezu Odori.”
New Green Season (May – June)
With fewer tourists, you can view in peaceful conditions. The garden’s greenery is particularly beautiful during this period.
Autumn Foliage Season (Mid to Late November)
The trees within the temple grounds display colors, and you can enjoy the autumn atmosphere. It is less crowded than plum blossom season.
Recommended Length of Stay
- Viewing main hall, sliding door paintings, and gardens: Approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour
- Including plum garden stroll: Approximately 1.5 to 2 hours
- Visiting nearby Kajuji Temple together: Approximately 3 hours
A stay of about 1.5 hours is recommended, including time to leisurely view the gardens and appreciate the sliding door paintings.
About Temple Seals (Goshuin)
You can receive temple seals at Zuishinin. Both pre-printed seals and hand-written seals are available, varying depending on the time and crowding conditions. It is recommended to bring an album for collecting seals.
Additionally, a cute seal album featuring Ono no Komachi designs is available and is popular with women.
Cultural Significance of Zuishinin and Ono no Komachi
Ono no Komachi as a Poet
Ono no Komachi was a female poet of the early Heian period, with 18 poems included in the “Kokinshu.” Her representative poem “Hana no iro wa / Utsuri ni keri na / Itazura ni / Waga mi yo ni furu / Nagame seshi ma ni” is known as a masterpiece expressing the transience of beauty and the impermanence of life.
Zuishinin is a precious place transmitting the footprints of Ono no Komachi to the present day and is also important for learning Heian culture.
Legend and Fact
Many legends remain about Ono no Komachi, but much about her actual life remains unclear and shrouded in mystery. However, this very mystery has inspired people’s imagination, and she continues to be beloved as a subject in Noh, kabuki, and literary works.
Zuishinin plays an important cultural and historical role as the center of Ono no Komachi legend.
Summary: The Charm of Zuishinin
Zuishinin is a temple full of historical romance, associated with Ono no Komachi, the beautiful woman of the Heian period. It is a temple with diverse charms: the fusion of brilliantly colored contemporary art sliding door paintings and traditional temple architecture, the beauty of spring plums, and serene gardens.
Its location in Yamashina, slightly away from central Kyoto, becomes an advantage for quiet, leisurely worship away from hustle and bustle. With easy subway access and the ability to visit nearby Kajuji and Daigoji temples, you can fully enjoy the charms of the Yamashina area.
Both the brilliance of plum blossom season and the serenity of other seasons offer unique charms of Zuishinin. When visiting Kyoto, why not add Zuishinin to your itinerary? A special experience awaits—pondering Ono no Komachi’s world while appreciating beautiful gardens and art.
