Complete Guide to Koshoji Temple in Uji, Kyoto｜The Charm of Dogen Zenji’s First Soto Zen Training Hall and the Koto Slope
Koshoji Temple (興聖寺), nestled at the foot of Mount Asahi in Uji City, Kyoto Prefecture, holds an extremely important position in the history of Japanese Soto Zen Buddhism. Known as the first training hall of Japanese Soto Zen founded by Zen Master Dogen, it remains a renowned temple visited by many pilgrims and tourists. This article provides comprehensive information from the temple’s history to temple grounds guide, seasonal attractions, and access methods—everything you should know before your visit.
History and Origins of Koshoji Temple
Founding by Zen Master Dogen and the Beginning of Japanese Soto Zen
The history of Koshoji Temple dates back to Tenpuku 1 (1233). Zen Master Dogen, who had returned from China (Song), established “Kannon Dori-In Koshoji Horin Zen Temple” in Fukakusa, Kyoto (now Fukakusa, Fushimi Ward, Kyoto). This became the first training hall of Soto Zen in Japan.
Zen Master Dogen established a rigorous zen meditation training hall in Fukakusa to transmit authentic Buddhist teachings to Japan. It is said that many disciples gathered here and engaged in strict seated meditation practice. However, due to pressure from the Enryaku-ji Temple on Mount Hiei and warfare, Zen Master Dogen moved to Echizen (now Fukui Prefecture) in Kangen 1 (1243), eventually founding Eihei-ji Temple.
The Fukakusa Koshoji Temple continued to exist for a time after Dogen’s departure, but became ruined due to warfare including the Onin Rebellion (1467-1477) and eventually fell into disrepair.
Restoration in the Early Edo Period and Present-Day Koshoji Temple
The current Koshoji Temple in Uji was restored in Keian 1 (1648) by Naoi Naomasa, lord of Yodo Castle. Naoi Naomasa, revering Zen Master Dogen’s virtue, resolved to rebuild Koshoji Temple in Uji.
The reasons for choosing Uji include the picturesque environment facing the clean waters of the Uji River, convenient access from Kyoto, and the tranquil location surrounded by naturally rich mountains such as Mount Asahi and Mount Buttoku. The mountain name was designated as “Mount Buttoku,” and Sakyamuni Triad was enshrined as the main object of worship.
The temple buildings of the restored Koshoji retain strong characteristics of Zen Buddhist architecture from the early Edo period and remain a historically and architecturally valuable temple to this day.
Temple Grounds Guide and Highlights
Koto Slope (Koto-zaka)｜A Representative Approach of Uji
When speaking of Koshoji Temple, one cannot omit its approach path, the “Koto Slope.” This approximately 200-meter slope from the outer gate to the temple gate is lined with tall trees on both sides, and the sound of the Uji River’s flow and the rustling of trees between them resound like the tones of a koto (Japanese stringed instrument), from which it takes its name.
In spring, the fresh green is beautiful, and in autumn, it becomes a tunnel of blazing maple leaves, enchanting visitors. Particularly during the maple season (mid to late November), many tourists visit as one of Kyoto’s finest maple viewing spots. The maple leaves on the Koto Slope change expression moment by moment depending on light, making it popular as a photography spot.
Temple Gate and Main Hall
Climbing the Koto Slope, a magnificent temple gate welcomes visitors. This gate was constructed at the time of the early Edo period restoration and features simple yet powerful design characteristic of Zen temples.
Passing through the gate, the Main Hall (Hatto) appears directly ahead. The Main Hall enshrines the principal image of Sakyamuni Triad, and seated meditation and dharma talks are held within. A “Cloud and Dragon Painting” is depicted on the ceiling, making it a space embodying the spirituality of zen.
Treasure House
The Treasure House of Koshoji Temple houses items related to Zen Master Dogen and historically precious cultural properties. One can view ink-brush writings of Zen Master Dogen, materials from the restoration by Naoi Naomasa during the Edo period, Buddhist statues and paintings from the Edo era, and other items that tell the history of Soto Zen Buddhism.
As the Treasure House is open irregularly, it is recommended to inquire with the temple in advance.
Inner Sanctuary, Mount Asahi Kannon
Behind the Main Hall, partway up Mount Asahi, stands the inner sanctuary enshrining the Bodhisattva Kannon. The mountain path leading here is enveloped in silence, creating an atmosphere that invites one into a deeper zen world.
Natural forests centered on Shii trees spread across Mount Asahi and Mount Buttoku, and this area has been selected in Kyoto Prefecture’s “200 Selections of Kyoto’s Nature.” This superior temple grove has been preserved alongside the temple’s history.
Study Hall and Garden
From the study hall, one can view a beautiful Japanese garden. The garden, incorporating elements of dry landscape style, expresses the zen concept of “nothingness,” and becoming still to observe it creates a space where the mind finds peace.
Koshoji Temple Through the Four Seasons and Annual Events
Koshoji in Spring
Spring at Koshoji Temple is filled with a fresh atmosphere enveloped in new green. The trees of the Koto Slope bud forth, and a soft green tunnel welcomes visitors. From April to May, visitors can also enjoy cherry blossoms and wild flowers on the temple grounds.
Koshoji in Summer
Summer brings deep green coverage, and cool breezes from the Uji River sweep across the temple grounds. With the sound of cicadas ringing out, participating in seated meditation practice allows one to spend silent time oblivious to the heat.
Koshoji in Autumn｜A Maple Viewing Spot
Autumn is when Koshoji Temple welcomes the most visitors. From mid to late November, the Koto Slope becomes a tunnel of red and yellow maple leaves, becoming popular as one of Kyoto’s representative maple viewing spots.
At dawn or dusk, the interplay of light makes the maple leaves shine even more brilliantly, offering a fantastical landscape. Weekends and holidays see crowds, so visiting on weekdays is recommended.
Koshoji in Winter
Winter at Koshoji Temple is a quiet season with few tourists. When snow accumulates on the Koto Slope and temple grounds, it displays a beauty reminiscent of ink-wash painting. Seated meditation practice in the cold deepens concentration and provides a precious opportunity to touch the essence of zen.
Annual Events and Meditation Sessions
Koshoji regularly holds monthly meditation sessions and gatherings such as “Shobogenzo” where dharma talks are given, open to the general public. Seated meditation and sutra-copying experiences are also available, providing time away from daily life to settle one’s mind.
Detailed schedules can be found on the official website; those interested in participating are recommended to check in advance.
Visiting Information and Access Methods
Basic Information
Official Name: Soto Zen Sect, Mount Buttoku, Koshoji Temple
Location: 〒611-0021 Uji City, Kyoto Prefecture, Uji Yamada 27-1
Phone: 0774-21-2040
Visiting Hours: 9:00～17:00 (reception until 16:30)
Admission: Adults 500 yen, Junior and Senior High School Students 300 yen, Elementary School Students 200 yen
Parking: Approximately 10 spaces for regular vehicles (free, but crowded during maple season)
※Visiting hours and admission fees may change; please check the official website or call before your visit.
Access by Train
Via Keihan Uji Line:
Get off at Keihan Uji Line “Uji Station” and walk approximately 15～20 minutes. Cross Uji Bridge and proceed upstream along the right bank of the Uji River.
Via JR Nara Line:
Get off at JR Nara Line “Uji Station” and walk approximately 25～30 minutes. Walk toward Keihan Uji Station and similarly proceed upstream along the right bank of the Uji River.
Access is more convenient via Keihan Uji Station. The walk from the station to Koshoji Temple is also a pleasant promenade where you can enjoy views of the Uji River.
Access by Car
From Kyoto:
Approximately 10～15 minutes from Kyoto-Shiga Bypass “Uji East IC” or “Uji West IC.”
From Osaka:
Approximately 10 minutes from Kyoto-Shiga Bypass “Uji East IC.”
Enter “Koshoji Temple” or the address “Kyoto Prefecture, Uji City, Uji Yamada 27-1” into your car navigation.
During maple season, parking lots often fill; using public transportation is recommended.
Tourist Spots Around Koshoji Temple
Byodo-in Temple and Phoenix Hall
Located approximately 15 minutes on foot from Koshoji, Byodo-in is a World Heritage Site known for its design on the 10-yen coin. The Phoenix Hall, constructed by Fujiwara no Yorimichi, transmits the aesthetic sensibilities of the Heian period along with its Pure Land garden.
Ujigami Shrine
Approximately 10 minutes on foot from Koshoji. Ujigami Shrine, registered as a World Heritage Site as Japan’s oldest Shinto architectural structure, is a precious shrine with an extant main hall from the late Heian period.
Uji River and Uji Bridge
The Uji River along the way to Koshoji is also known as the setting for the Uji chapters of “The Tale of Genji.” The view from Uji Bridge is beautiful through all seasons, and riverside walks are also enjoyable.
Genji Monogatari Museum
Uji is famous as the setting for “The Tale of Genji,” and the Genji Monogatari Museum offers an experience of Heian period culture and the world of the tale. It is approximately 20 minutes on foot from Koshoji.
Seated Meditation and Sutra-Copying Experiences at Koshoji
Koshoji regularly holds seated meditation sessions and sutra-copying gatherings open to the general public. These are precious opportunities to experience authentic Soto Zen seated meditation.
Seated Meditation Experience
Monthly meditation sessions are held regularly and are open to beginners. Instructions in seated meditation practice are given carefully, so first-time participants can join with confidence. Early morning seated meditation in silence becomes a precious time away from daily chaos, allowing one to face oneself.
Sutra-Copying Experience
Sutra-copying involves carefully hand-copying Buddhist scriptures, a form of practice. Koshoji offers sutra-copying experiences with the Heart Sutra, providing time to settle one’s mind and concentrate.
Zen Dharma Training Seminars
The temple also accepts group zen training seminars, used for corporate training and school events. For details, inquire directly with the temple.
Points to Note and Etiquette When Visiting Koshoji
Etiquette While Viewing
Koshoji remains an active zen training hall. Please observe the following etiquette while visiting.
- Move quietly within the temple grounds
- Photography inside the main hall may require permission
- Remain especially quiet during seated meditation and dharma talks
- Refrain from entering restricted areas
- Take all trash with you
Attire
When participating in seated meditation, loose-fitting, non-restrictive clothing is recommended. Avoid skirts and stiff materials like jeans; loose-fitting pants are appropriate.
Photography
Photography of the Koto Slope and exterior of the temple grounds is allowed, but photography may be prohibited in the main hall interior and treasure house. Always confirm in advance and photograph only in permitted areas.
Dealing with Maple Season Crowds
November maple season is particularly crowded. If possible, visit on weekdays during early morning or late afternoon. Also, as parking often fills, consider using public transportation.
Enjoying Koshoji Temple to Its Fullest
Koshoji is not merely a tourist attraction but an active training hall where the zen tradition from Zen Master Dogen continues to flourish. It is a precious place where one can experience the beautiful nature of the Koto Slope, Edo period early architecture, and above all, the spirituality of zen.
When visiting, rather than simply viewing the scenery, walking quietly through the grounds and experiencing seated meditation or sutra-copying will allow you to feel Koshoji’s charm more deeply. Why not spend time in quiet contemplation at Koshoji, which can be called the source of Japanese Soto Zen Buddhism?
When visiting Uji, be sure to stop by Koshoji along with Byodo-in and Ujigami Shrine. The seasonal beauty of the Koto Slope and the quiet atmosphere unique to a zen temple will surely become a memorable experience.
