Kanmanngafuchi (Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture) Complete Guide | Mysterious Gorge with Mysterious Jizo Statues and Lava Formations
A mysterious gorge stands quietly a little away from the center of Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture. That is Kanmanngafuchi (かんまんがふち). Known for its unique topography carved out by lava erupted from Mount Nantai and the clear waters of the Oyado River, and the mysterious “transforming Jizo statues” whose number changes each time they are counted, this place is a special spot where you can enjoy tranquility and natural beauty away from the hustle and bustle of Nikko.
This article comprehensively introduces information you should know before visiting Kanmanngafuchi, including its historical background, highlights, access methods, and surrounding tourist spots.
What is Kanmanngafuchi? The Origin of Its Name and History
Geographical Characteristics of Kanmanngafuchi
Kanmanngafuchi is a small gorge in Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture, located along the Oyado River. It refers to the area around the Jiunji Temple grounds and the area with Jizo statues, and this unique topography was formed by lava flowing from Mount Nantai.
Through volcanic activity on Mount Nantai approximately 20,000 years ago, erupted lava was cut by the rapids of the Oyado River over a long period of time, creating the present unusual landscape. The contrast between the blackened lava rock surface and the highly transparent clear stream is truly a work of art created by nature.
The Origin of the Name “Kanmanngafuchi”
The name Kanmanngafuchi has a deep Buddhist background. The place name, written as “憾満ヶ淵” or “含満ヶ淵,” derives from the mantra of Acala (Fudō Myōō), the Immovable One.
A stone statue of Acala, enshrined on a large rock on the riverbank, was erected by the high priest Kokai. It is said that the sound of the rapids of the Oyado River striking the rocks sounds like “Kanman,” the final phrase of Acala’s mantra, which is how this name came to be.
A mantra in Buddhism is a sacred word believed to possess special power. The faith of our ancestors, who heard the teachings of the Buddha in the sounds of nature, is embodied in this place name.
Historical Background and Religious Significance
Kanmanngafuchi has long been revered as a sacred site. It was believed to be a holy place where Acala would appear, and mountain ascetics and monks are said to have visited to practice here.
During the Edo period, it became part of the pilgrimage route to Nikko Tōshō-gu Shrine, and many pilgrims visited. Even today, along with Jiunji Temple, it is cherished by local people as a quiet place of prayer.
The Strange Legend of the Transforming Jizo Statues (Narabi Jizo)
The Mystery of Transforming Jizo: A Number That Changes Each Time It Is Counted
The main attraction of Kanmanngafuchi is approximately 70 Jizo statues lined up on the south bank of the Oyado River. These are called the “transforming Jizo” or “Narabi Jizo” (statues in a row), and they continue to fascinate visitors.
The greatest feature of the transforming Jizo is the mysterious phenomenon that the number changes each time it is counted. Many accounts report that the number counted on the way in does not match the number counted on the way back, and no matter how many times you count, you never arrive at the same number.
There are various theories about this phenomenon. One suggests that the Jizo statues move around at night, changing their number, or that the way they appear changes depending on the mental state of the viewer. Another more practical explanation points out that because the arrangement and size of the statues are irregular, miscounting easily occurs.
The Origin and History of the Jizo Statue Group
These statues are thought to have been offered from the Edo period through the Meiji period as prayer offerings for the well-being of deceased children and children’s health. Each statue contains the earnest prayers of parents.
Jizō Bosatsu (Jizō Bodhisattva) is believed to travel through all six realms (hell, hungry ghosts, animals, asuras, humans, and heavenly beings) to save all sentient beings. In particular, he has been worshipped as a guardian deity of children. The Jizo statue group at Kanmanngafuchi is a valuable cultural asset that conveys the history of such faith to the present day.
How to Enjoy the Jizo Statue Tour
The Jizo statues are lined up along a walking path beside the Oyado River. Each statue has a different expression and size, and careful observation reveals interesting discoveries.
When you visit, be sure to count the statues yourself. Then try counting again on the way back, and you may have a mysterious experience. However, be careful not to become so absorbed in counting the statues that you overlook your safety underfoot.
The time spent with hands clasped in front of a Jizo statue, offering quiet prayers, becomes a precious moment that allows you to forget the bustle of everyday life.
The Legend of Kōbō Daishi’s Brush-Throwing and Sanskrit Characters
Sanskrit Characters “Kanman” Carved into the Cliff Face
Upstream from Kanmanngafuchi, there is a steep cliff. On its rock face, Sanskrit characters representing “kanman” are carved.
Sanskrit characters are letters used in ancient India and are employed in Buddhism as sacred characters representing Buddhas and Bodhisattvas. These Sanskrit characters for “kanman” symbolize Acala.
The Legend of Kōbō Daishi
An interesting legend is associated with these Sanskrit characters. It is the “brush-throwing legend” that says Kōbō Daishi (Kūkai) threw his brush to carve them.
Kōbō Daishi was a Buddhist monk in the early Heian period and is known as the founder of the Shingon school of Buddhism. Legends of Kōbō Daishi are scattered throughout the country, and Kanmanngafuchi is one of them.
In reality, the characters are believed to have been carved by later monks or believers, but this legend indicates that Kanmanngafuchi was recognized as an important sacred site from ancient times.
The Joy of Searching for Sanskrit Characters
The Sanskrit characters are located on the upstream cliff face, a little distance from the walking path. Because the river’s flow and rock formations limit the angle from which they can be seen, searching for them is itself a form of enjoyment.
The way the Sanskrit characters appear changes with the light depending on the season and time of day. Viewing them in the soft morning light, in particular, will create a more mystical atmosphere.
The Charm of Kanmanngafuchi Throughout the Four Seasons
Spring’s Fresh Greenery
Spring at Kanmanngafuchi is a season of beautiful fresh greenery. The contrast between the black lava rock surface and the vivid green of newly emerging buds delights the eye.
From April through May, wild cherry blossoms and azaleas also bloom, creating a lively atmosphere. The water volume of the Oyado River is abundant, and the sound of the clear stream is pleasantly echoing.
Summer’s Coolness
Summer at Kanmanngafuchi is one of the coolest spots in Nikko. The cold water of the Oyado River flowing through the gorge and the green shade of the trees act as a natural air conditioner, making you forget the heat.
In the summer sun, the contrast between the lava rock surface and the clear stream becomes even more vivid, and it is an ideal season for photography.
Autumn Foliage
The autumn foliage at Kanmanngafuchi is best viewed from late October through early November. Maples and Japanese maple trees turn color, and the sight of black lava stone combined with red and yellow autumn leaves is spectacular.
The area around the Jizo statue group is particularly beautiful with the collaboration of autumn foliage and statues, attracting many photography enthusiasts. It is less crowded compared to the center of Nikko, allowing you to enjoy the foliage at a leisurely pace. This is also an attractive feature.
Winter’s Silence
Winter at Kanmanngafuchi is wrapped in silence, with few visitors. When snow accumulates, it piles up on the Jizo statues, appearing as though they are wearing white hats—a charming sight.
In the freezing cold, the clear water of the Oyado River continues to flow vigorously, and its sound makes the silence more pronounced. It is a season where you can experience the solemn atmosphere unique to winter.
Access Methods and Basic Information
Access by Car
From the Tokyo area:
- About 5 km from “Nikko IC” on the Nikko-Utsunomiya Expressway, approximately 10 minutes by car
- Proceed toward Nikko city along National Route 119 and follow the guide signs
Parking Information:
- Free dedicated parking lot for Kanmanngafuchi (approximately 20 spaces)
- The parking lot of Jiunji Temple is also available
- Early arrival is recommended during the autumn foliage season due to congestion
Access by Public Transportation
Train and Bus:
- Board Tobu Bus “Chuzenji Onsen” or “Yumoto Onsen” bound from JR Nikko Station or Tobu Nikko Station
- Get off at “Sogo Kaikan-mae” bus stop, approximately 5 minutes on foot
- Bus travel time: approximately 7 minutes
- Fare: approximately 210 yen for adults
On Foot:
- Approximately 30 minutes on foot from Tobu Nikko Station (approximately 2.5 km)
- Walking while enjoying sightseeing around Nikko city is also recommended
Basic Information
- Location: Takumi-cho, Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture
- Hours: Open 24 hours (however, nighttime visits are not recommended)
- Admission: Free
- Time Required for Viewing: Approximately 30 minutes to 1 hour
- Inquiries: Nikko City Tourism Association TEL: 0288-22-1525
Points to Note During Your Visit
- Watch Your Footing: The walking path is maintained but has rocky areas and steps. Comfortable walking shoes are recommended.
- Check the Weather: The path becomes slippery after rain or during rainy weather. Check the weather before visiting.
- Do Not Get Too Close to the River: The Oyado River is a rapid stream. Be careful not to get too close to the riverbank.
- Show Respect for the Jizo Statues: The statues are objects of worship. Do not touch them or climb on them.
- Take Your Trash With You: To protect nature, be sure to take all trash with you.
The Relationship with Jiunji Temple
When visiting Kanmanngafuchi, it is recommended to also visit the adjacent Jiunji Temple.
Jiunji Temple is a Rinzai Zen temple located at the entrance to Kanmanngafuchi. The temple grounds have a magnificent gate, and you can worship in a quiet atmosphere.
A walking path to Kanmanngafuchi continues from the temple grounds, allowing you to enjoy both worship and a stroll in one visit. Paying attention to the history and architecture of Jiunji Temple will provide deeper understanding.
Recommended Nearby Spots
Nikko Tōshō-gu Shrine
Located about 10 minutes by car or about 30 minutes on foot from Kanmanngafuchi, Nikko Tōshō-gu Shrine is the central spot of Nikko sightseeing and is registered as a World Heritage Site. The gorgeously decorated hall enshrining Tokugawa Ieyasu is a must-see.
Nikko Futarasan Shrine
Adjacent to Nikko Tōshō-gu Shrine, Futarasan Shrine is the center of Nikko mountain faith. It is also popular as a power spot for matchmaking.
Kegon Falls
Kegon Falls, one of Japan’s three most famous waterfalls, is about 30 minutes by car from Kanmanngafuchi. The spectacular sight of water falling from a height of 97 meters is breathtaking.
Lake Chūzenji
Lake Chūzenji, created by an eruption of Mount Nantai, is a beautiful lake located at an altitude of 1,269 meters. You can enjoy scenery of the four seasons.
Recommended Nearby Cuisine
Nikko Yuba Cuisine
Nikko’s specialty yuba (tofu skin) is a traditional dish where you can enjoy the rich flavor of soybeans. There are many yuba specialty restaurants in Nikko city.
Nikko Ramen
Nikko ramen, characterized by a light, soy-based broth, is a dish worth stopping by during sightseeing. It is a must-try.
Soba Restaurants
Soba restaurants using locally produced soba flour are scattered throughout the Nikko area. Recommended as a meal after exploring Kanmanngafuchi.
Hotel and Accommodation Information for Nearby Areas
Hotels in Nikko City
Around Nikko Station, there are a wide range of accommodations from business hotels to luxury inns. Access to Kanmanngafuchi is also convenient.
Hot Spring Inns Around Lake Chūzenji
There are numerous accommodations where you can enjoy hot springs on the shores of Lake Chūzenji and in the Oku-Nikko area. They are ideal as a base for Nikko sightseeing.
Kinugawa Hot Spring
About 30 minutes by car from Nikko, Kinugawa Hot Spring is one of the leading hot spring resorts in the Kanto region. Its abundant hot spring water and diverse accommodations are its attractions.
Model Courses Including Kanmanngafuchi
Full Day Nikko Enjoyment Course
Morning:
- 9:00 Arrive at Tobu Nikko Station
- 9:30 Explore Kanmanngafuchi (count the transforming Jizo statues)
- 10:30 Visit Nikko Tōshō-gu Shrine
Afternoon:
- 12:00 Lunch with yuba cuisine in Nikko city
- 13:30 View Kegon Falls
- 15:00 Walk around Lake Chūzenji
- 17:00 Head back
Special Course for Autumn Foliage Season
Day 1:
- Morning: Drive along Iroha Slope, Lake Chūzenji
- Afternoon: Kegon Falls, Oku-Nikko exploration
- Accommodation: Hot spring inn on the shores of Lake Chūzenji
Day 2:
- Morning: Nikko Tōshō-gu Shrine, Futarasan Shrine
- Afternoon: Enjoy autumn foliage at Kanmanngafuchi, visit Jiunji Temple
Photography Tips
Photographing the Jizo Statue Group
When photographing the Jizo statues, soft morning light is recommended. Photographing in front-lit conditions will show the statues’ expressions well. Capturing the entire group with a wide-angle lens is appealing, as is capturing the expression of each individual statue with a telephoto lens.
Photographing Gorge Beauty
For photographing the clear water of the Oyado River and the lava rock surface, using a slow shutter technique to express the flow of water is recommended. A tripod will allow for stable photography.
Photographing Autumn Foliage
During autumn foliage season, compositions combining statues and foliage are popular. Using side-lighting in early morning or evening will create more impressive photographs.
Conclusion: Experience the Charm of Kanmanngafuchi
Kanmanngafuchi is a particularly mystical and quiet spot among the sights of Nikko. An unusual landscape unfolds where nature and faith merge—unusual landscape features created by lava from Mount Nantai, the clear waters of the Oyado River where the mantra of Acala echoes, transforming Jizo statues whose number changes each time they are counted, and Sanskrit characters bearing the legend of Kōbō Daishi’s brush-throwing.
Compared to famous tourist destinations such as Nikko Tōshō-gu Shrine, it is less crowded and allows for leisurely exploration. Kanmanngafuchi, which displays different faces throughout the four seasons, offers new discoveries no matter how many times you visit.
When you visit Nikko, be sure to extend your trip to Kanmanngafuchi and experience its mystical atmosphere. The time spent counting the transforming Jizo statues and reflecting on the beauty of nature and the faith of our ancestors will surely become a special experience that remains in your heart.
