Nanzenji Tokutoku-an / Saisho-in (Kyoto Prefecture) Complete Guide: The Enmusubi Pine and Hidden Autumn Foliage Gem
Quietly standing deep within the Nanzenji temple grounds in Sakyo Ward, Kyoto City, beyond the Water Aqueduct (Suirokaku), Tokutoku-an (Saisho-in) is a subsidiary temple that offers seasonal beauty in a serene atmosphere, in contrast to the bustling main hall of Nanzenji frequented by tourists. In particular, the “Enmusubi Pine” (Marriage-Matching Pine), where a 300-year-old crape myrtle and a 100-year-old pine tree coexist, captivates many pilgrims as the symbol of this temple.
Tokutoku-an (Saisho-in): History and Origin of a Nanzenji Subsidiary Temple
A Sacred Land “Shinsenkaikyo” Continuing from the Kamakura Period
Tokutoku-an (Saisho-in) is one of the subsidiary temples of Nanzenji, the head temple of the Rinzai Zen Buddhist Nanzenji school. While the details of its founding and changes are unclear, its origins trace back to the Kamakura period. It is said that the area began when the high priest Komodō Tomo, a master of Tendai esoteric Buddhism, secluded himself here, and this area has long been revered as a sacred site called “Shinsenkaikyo” (A Heavenly Realm of Immortals).
Known as a sacred place associated with the spiritual power of Komodō Tomo, this location was recognized as a spiritually efficacious land even before Nanzenji’s founding, and it maintains its tranquil atmosphere to this day. While Nanzenji, with its history of over 700 years since its establishment, is a renowned temple of the Rinzai Zen school, Tokutoku-an can be said to be a place with particularly significant historical background among its temples.
Position as a Subsidiary Temple
A subsidiary temple (tatchu) refers to small temples built within or near the grounds of a large temple, often serving as burial places for high priests or built by disciples in reverence for their teachers. While many subsidiary temples exist within Nanzenji, Tokutoku-an (Saisho-in) is located at the innermost part of Nanzenji, in a quiet place beyond the Water Aqueduct.
Compared to other Nanzenji subsidiary temples such as Tenjuan, Tokutoku-an is known as a hidden gem with fewer tourists, where one can leisurely stroll through the grounds. The serene space, where one can feel the Zen spirit of the Rinzai sect, allows visitors to forget the hustle and bustle of the city.
The Greatest Attraction of Tokutoku-an: The Enmusubi Pine
The Miraculous Coexistence of Crape Myrtle and Pine
The “Enmusubi Pine” standing before the main hall of Tokutoku-an is perhaps the primary reason to visit this temple. This remarkable tree is a rare symbiotic plant where a 100-year-old pine tree grows on a approximately 300-year-old crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia).
While it is extremely rare for different types of trees to become one organism, this crape myrtle and pine have beautifully merged over many years, growing as if nestled together. Because this appearance resembles the way romantic bonds are formed between men and women, it is called the “Enmusubi Pine,” and many pilgrims visit to pray for good relationships.
The Enmusubi Pine Displaying Different Faces Throughout the Seasons
The Enmusubi Pine reveals different beauty depending on the season. In summer, the vibrant pink flowers of the crape myrtle bloom brilliantly, creating a striking contrast with the green pine. In autumn, combined with the surrounding autumn foliage, the entire temple grounds create a colorful landscape. In winter, the evergreen pine stands out against the snowy scenery, and in spring, the sprouting new leaves convey the vitality of life.
Within the beautifully maintained garden before the main hall, the Enmusubi Pine conveys to visitors the mystery of nature and the strength of life force.
Beautiful Approach: The Landscape Created by Rhombus-Shaped Stones
Characteristic Rhombus-Shaped Paving Stones
The approach leading to Tokutoku-an is characterized by rhombus-shaped stones arranged in a distinctive pattern, boasting unique beauty among Kyoto’s temples. These rhombus-shaped paving stones are orderly arranged leading to the temple, quietly welcoming pilgrims.
The stone-paved approach creates beautiful patterns as rain-soaked stones reflect light on rainy days, and dappled sunlight creates lovely designs on clear days. Simply walking this path allows one to feel a special time apart from everyday life.
The Beauty of the Approach During Autumn Foliage Season
Particularly during the autumn foliage season, the colored leaves spread across both sides of the approach like a canopy, creating a magnificent view in harmony with the rhombus-shaped stone paving. Red and golden leaves fall onto the stone paving, creating a scene like a work of art created by nature.
As one progresses along the approach, one moves away from the bustle of Nanzenji, and a quieter, more sacred atmosphere begins to permeate. This transition is one of the delights of visiting Tokutoku-an.
Komaga Falls: A Spiritually Efficacious Waterfall Flowing from the Mountains
The Falls Associated with High Priest Komodō Tomo
In the mountains surrounding Tokutoku-an, there is a waterfall called “Komaga Falls.” The name of this waterfall derives from the high priest Komodō Tomo, who secluded himself in this area, and it has long been known as a place of spiritual efficacy.
Komaga Falls is located deeper within the Tokutoku-an grounds, and while few people visit, the pure flow of water and the surrounding natural environment possess an atmosphere befitting the name “Shinsenkaikyo.”
A Place of Practice Surrounded by Nature
Waterfalls have long been valued as places for practice and prayer. The Komaga Falls area is no exception, offering a precious space where one can confront nature in a quiet environment. An environment where only the sound of water echoes is a place conducive to calming the mind and meditation.
Tokutoku-an as a Noted Autumn Foliage Spot
A Hidden Gem for Autumn Foliage Viewing
While Kyoto has many famous autumn foliage spots, Tokutoku-an (Saisho-in) is gaining attention among autumn foliage enthusiasts as a relatively unknown hidden gem. Compared to famous foliage spots such as the Nanzenji main hall, Tenjuan, and Eikan-do Zenrin-ji, the number of visitors is significantly fewer, allowing one to enjoy the foliage in a peaceful setting.
The autumn foliage within the grounds colors beautifully, centered around the main hall garden, creating a unique landscape in combination with the Enmusubi Pine. The sight of autumn leaves scattered and accumulated on the rhombus-paved approach is reminiscent of a painting.
Peak Autumn Foliage Season
The autumn foliage in Sakyo Ward, Kyoto City typically reaches its peak from mid-November through early December. Tokutoku-an can similarly be enjoyed at its most beautiful during this period. However, the timing of peak foliage shifts depending on each year’s weather conditions, so it is recommended to check the latest coloring status before your visit.
Early mornings and weekday mornings are particularly quiet, allowing one to enjoy the foliage in a peaceful environment. Those wishing to avoid anticipated crowds should visit shortly after opening.
The Green Foliage Season is Also Beautiful
Beyond the autumn foliage season, Tokutoku-an presents exceptionally beautiful scenery during the early summer green foliage season. The vibrant green of new growth offers a freshness different from autumn foliage, and the entire grounds are enveloped in an atmosphere full of vitality.
The green foliage season is less crowded than the autumn foliage season, offering the advantage of being able to stroll through the grounds at a more leisurely pace. A visit from May through June is also recommended.
Access Information: How to Get to Tokutoku-an
Access by Public Transportation
By Train:
- Approximately 10 minutes walk from Keage Station on the Kyoto Municipal Subway Tozai Line
- Exit from Keage Station’s Exit 1 and head toward Nanzenji
- Enter the Nanzenji grounds and head toward the Water Aqueduct (the aqueduct bridge of the Lake Biwa Aqueduct)
- Proceed up the slope beside the Water Aqueduct to arrive at Tokutoku-an
By Bus:
- Get off at the “Nanzenji/Eikando-michi” bus stop, approximately 12 minutes walk
- Get off at the “Higashitennoji-cho” bus stop, approximately 15 minutes walk
Access by Car
By Car:
- Approximately 20 minutes from Kyoto East IC on the Meishin Expressway
- However, parking is limited around Nanzenji, and congestion is expected particularly during the autumn foliage season
- Use of public transportation is recommended whenever possible
Route from Within the Nanzenji Grounds
Since Tokutoku-an is located at the innermost part of Nanzenji, the typical route is to view Nanzenji’s major attractions first before visiting.
- View the Nanzenji three-story gate and main hall
- View the Water Aqueduct (Suirokaku) of the Lake Biwa Aqueduct
- Go up the slope beside the Water Aqueduct
- Upon seeing the approach with rhombus-shaped paving, you have arrived at Tokutoku-an
While the path is well maintained, it involves a slight uphill grade, so comfortable walking shoes are recommended.
Visiting Information and Precautions
Basic Information
Address: 86-2 Nanzenji Fukuji-cho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture
Visiting Hours: The grounds are generally open during daytime hours, but it is recommended to confirm detailed visiting hours in advance.
Admission: Ground viewing is generally free, but special viewing occasions may require additional fees.
Things to Note When Visiting
- Tokutoku-an is a temple that values silence. Refrain from loud conversation and visit respectfully and quietly
- When photographing the main hall or gardens, do so in accordance with etiquette
- The Enmusubi Pine is a precious natural heritage. Be careful not to touch it or break branches
- The rhombus-shaped stones on the approach become slippery during rain. Watch your footing carefully
- Smoking is prohibited within the grounds
Nearby Tourist Attractions
Nanzenji Main Hall and Three-Story Gate
When visiting Tokutoku-an, be sure to also visit the main attractions of Nanzenji. Particularly, the large three-story gate of the “five-bay, three-door, two-tiered” design is a Kyoto representative structure known for the famous line “What a magnificent view!” by the legendary thief Ishikawa Goemon. From atop the gate, one can see a panoramic view of Kyoto city, which is spectacular.
Lake Biwa Aqueduct and Water Aqueduct
The Water Aqueduct, which one must pass through on the way to Tokutoku-an, is part of the Lake Biwa Aqueduct constructed during the Meiji period, and its brick arched bridge is a beautiful example of modern industrial heritage. During the autumn foliage and green foliage seasons, the harmony between the Water Aqueduct and nature becomes an excellent photo spot.
Eikan-do Zenrin-ji
Located within walking distance of Nanzenji, Eikan-do Zenrin-ji is known as “The Eikan-do of Autumn Foliage,” one of Kyoto’s premier autumn foliage viewing spots. Approximately 3,000 maple trees color the grounds, and the nighttime viewing with illumination is particularly fantastical in beauty.
Tenjuan
Tenjuan, another Nanzenji subsidiary temple, is also famous as an autumn foliage spot. It features both a dry landscape garden and a stroll garden with a pond, each offering different beauty. It is recommended to enjoy a tour of Nanzenji subsidiary temples combined with a visit to Tokutoku-an.
Kumano Wakamiya Shrine
Located at the southern end of the Philosopher’s Path, Kumano Wakamiya Shrine is known as a spot for both cherry blossoms and autumn foliage. It can be reached from Nanzenji via a stroll along the Philosopher’s Path, allowing one to feel Kyoto’s nature and history.
Kyoto City Zoo
For families, the Kyoto City Zoo near Keage Station is also recommended. Japan’s second-oldest zoo, it is compact yet features a diverse array of animals.
Special Experiences: Zazen (Meditation) and Calligraphy Workshops
Tokutoku-an occasionally hosts special cultural experience programs during certain periods. Calligraphy workshops led by calligraphers and artists, as well as zazen meditation guided by Buddhist monks, offer precious opportunities to touch the Zen spirit.
The experience of renting out a serene Japanese room with a view of a beautiful inner garden to study writing with a pen brush or to face oneself through zazen will become a special memory of your Kyoto trip. These experiences often require advance reservation, so those interested are encouraged to confirm information beforehand.
Seasonal Ways to Enjoy Tokutoku-an
Spring (March to May)
Spring at Tokutoku-an features beautiful new foliage, particularly the refreshing green foliage from late April through May. During the cherry blossom season, it is recommended to enjoy the cherry blossoms around Nanzenji and then spend quiet time at Tokutoku-an.
Summer (June to August)
Summer is the season when the crape myrtle blooms. The crape myrtle on the Enmusubi Pine blooms in vivid pink flowers, creating a beautiful landscape with the contrast of the pine’s green. The trees within the grounds grow luxuriantly, creating a cool atmosphere.
Autumn (September to November)
Autumn is the most beautiful season at Tokutoku-an. During the autumn foliage season from mid-November through early December, the entire grounds are tinted red and gold, and the combination of the rhombus-shaped approach and autumn foliage creates a magnificent view. The collaboration between the Enmusubi Pine and autumn foliage is not to be missed.
Winter (December to February)
Winter at Tokutoku-an is visited by few people, allowing one to enjoy a more serene atmosphere. On snowy days, the white snowy world and the evergreen pine create a beautiful contrast, spreading a landscape like a sumi-e ink painting.
Goshuin (Temple Seal) Information
Tokutoku-an may provide goshuin stamps in some cases. However, it may not always be available, so those wishing to obtain a goshuin are encouraged to confirm in advance. Enjoying a goshuin collection tour combined with the main Nanzenji temple office and other subsidiary temples is one of the joys of visiting Kyoto.
Conclusion: Experiencing Silent Kyoto at Tokutoku-an
Nanzenji Tokutoku-an (Saisho-in) is a precious place in Kyoto, where one can quietly feel nature and history amidst the tourist crowds. The “Enmusubi Pine,” where a 300-year-old crape myrtle and 100-year-old pine coexist, the beautiful rhombus-shaped stone approach, and the history continuing from the Kamakura period as a “Shinsenkaikyo” provide visitors with special experiences.
Both the splendor of the autumn foliage season and the freshness of the green foliage offer exceptional beauty. When visiting Nanzenji, be sure to venture a bit further and visit this serene subsidiary temple. Time spent away from the bustle of the city, calming your mind, will surely deepen your Kyoto experience.
Crossing the Water Aqueduct of the Lake Biwa Aqueduct, walking the approach with rhombus-shaped paving, and praying for good fortune before the Enmusubi Pine—why not spend such special time at Tokutoku-an?
