Nanzenji (Kyoto Prefecture) Complete Guide: Thorough Explanation of Must-See Attractions from the Spectacular Suirokaku to the Sanmon Gate
Nanzenji, located in Sakyo Ward, Kyoto City, is a renowned temple positioned as the highest-ranking Zen temple in Japan, serving as the head temple of the Nanzenji branch of the Rinzai school. Its magnificent Sanmon gate, beautiful abbot’s residence garden, and brick Suirokaku aqueduct continue to captivate visitors with their diverse attractions. This article comprehensively introduces information you should know before visiting, from the history of Nanzenji to details of each structure, admission information, and access methods.
Nanzenji: A Renowned Temple with the Highest Status Among Japanese Zen Temples
Nanzenji’s origins trace back to the late Kamakura period in Shōō 4 (1291), when the retired Emperor Kameyama converted his palace into a temple. The founding priest was Mugan Fumon (Daimei Kokushi), and for over 700 years since then, it has stood as the central figure in Japan’s Zen Buddhist culture.
The Special Status of “Gozan no Ue”
In the system of the Five Temples of Kyoto and Five Temples of Kamakura established by the Muromachi shogunate, Nanzenji was positioned at the exceptional highest rank of “Gozan no Ue” (above the Five Temples). This special status meant a rank even higher than the Five Temples of Kyoto—Tenryuji, Shōkokuji, Kenninji, Tōfukuji, and Manjuji. This position speaks to Nanzenji’s great authority and influence.
Deep Connections with Imperial Lineages
Since its founding, Nanzenji has maintained strong ties with the imperial family, with retired emperors Kameyama, Go-Daigo, and Hanazono particularly devoted to it. Numerous sites of imperial connection remain within the temple grounds today, and despite being a Zen temple, the temple exudes a unique atmosphere tinged with the fragrance of court culture.
Principal Attractions of Nanzenji
Nanzenji’s vast temple grounds contain numerous attractions, including National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties. Let us examine in detail the history and beauty of each structure and garden.
Sanmon Gate: The Majestic Tower Gate Known for the Famous Line “What a Splendid Sight!”
The principal structure representing Nanzenji is the enormous Sanmon gate, standing 22 meters tall. The current Sanmon was rebuilt in Kan’ei 5 (1628) by Tōdō Takatora to commemorate the souls of his retainers who fell in the Summer Campaign of Osaka, and it is designated as an Important Cultural Property.
Relationship with the Kabuki Play “Rōmon Gosan no Kiri”
The Sanmon is famous as the stage for the kabuki play “Rōmon Gosan no Kiri,” where Ishikawa Goemon strikes a dramatic pose exclaiming “What a splendid sight, what a splendid sight!” Although this gate did not actually exist during Goemon’s time, this famous line has made Nanzenji’s Sanmon known throughout the nation.
The View from Sanmon
The Sanmon can be visited for an admission fee of 500 yen to access the upper levels. From the second story, one can command a panoramic view of Kyoto’s cityscape, with the mountain ridges of Higashiyama, the arrangement of temple buildings in the grounds, and even distant Mount Hiei visible. Especially during the autumn foliage season, the colored trees spread below, and the view truly merits the words “What a splendid sight!”
The Abbot’s Residence: An Imposing National Treasure Structure
Nanzenji’s abbot’s residence is a National Treasure designated building, moved from the imperial palace in Keichō 16 (1611). It consists of a large abbot’s residence and small abbot’s residence, each preserving magnificent wall paintings.
Wall Paintings by the Kanō School
The interior contains wall paintings by Kanō Tan’yū, Kanō Sadanobu, and others. Works known as the “Tiger Drinking Water” and depicting the four seasons represent the pinnacle of painting art from the Azuchi-Momoyama through early Edo periods. These wall paintings are designated Important Cultural Properties and are precious works in the history of Japanese painting.
The Abbot’s Residence Garden: A Masterpiece of Dry Landscape Garden Attributed to Kobori Enshū
The area surrounding the abbot’s residence features a representative dry landscape garden of the early Edo period. The abbot’s residence garden, particularly known as the “Tiger’s Children Crossing” garden, is attributed to Kobori Enshū and is designated a National Scenic Beauty.
The Composition of “Tiger’s Children Crossing”
The garden before the large abbot’s residence is characterized by stone arrangements placed upon white sand. This represents tigers crossing a river with three cubs, earning the name “Tiger’s Children Crossing.” According to a Chinese tale, among three tiger cubs one is a fierce “leopard” that would eat the others, requiring a careful method of crossing—an intellectually designed garden composition expressing this story.
The Garden’s Beauty Through the Seasons
The abbot’s residence garden displays different aspects with each season. Spring brings fresh greenery, summer deep green, autumn red leaves, and winter snowy landscapes. The universal beauty of white sand and stone arrangements gains seasonal colors, offering new discoveries with each visit. Particularly during mid-to-late November’s autumn foliage season, the maples surrounding the garden turn brilliant colors, drawing many visitors.
Suirokaku: A Unique Landscape Created by Meiji-Era Modern Architecture
What all visitors to Nanzenji inevitably observe is the red-brick arched bridge called “Suirokaku” crossing through the temple grounds. This is part of the Lake Biwa Canal completed in Meiji 21 (1888), measuring 93.2 meters in length and 9 meters in height, a magnificent structure.
The Lake Biwa Canal and the Role of Suirokaku
The Lake Biwa Canal was a large-scale water engineering project diverting water from Lake Biwa into Kyoto City. The Suirokaku was constructed to carry this waterway over a valley within Nanzenji’s grounds. Designed by Kyoto Imperial University professor Tanabe Sakurō, its Roman aqueduct-inspired arch structure employed the cutting-edge technology of the time.
The Harmony of Ancient Temple and Modern Architecture
Initially criticized for “marring the landscape of the ancient capital,” it now stands as a symbol of Nanzenji, with the red-brick arch harmonizing beautifully with the surrounding nature and becoming the temple’s signature photography spot. One can walk atop the Suirokaku, where water from Lake Biwa continues to flow.
Photography Points for Suirokaku
The Suirokaku can be photographed from various angles. Compositions from below looking up at the arch, lateral views capturing the entire structure, and views of the Sanmon beyond the Suirokaku all offer different expressions depending on time of day and season. Particularly during fresh green and autumn foliage seasons, the contrast between red brick and nature’s green and crimson creates beautiful, painting-like scenery.
The Dharma Hall: The Central Structure of a Zen Temple
The Dharma Hall (hattō) is an important building in Zen temples where sermons and ceremonies are performed. Nanzenji’s Dharma Hall, rebuilt in Meiji 42 (1909), features “Dragon Painting with Fluttering Banner” (Hata Ryū-zu) by Imao Keinen on its ceiling. This dragon painting is known as a “Eight-Directional Glancing Dragon,” appearing to change expression when viewed from different angles.
Sub-Temples: Each with Unique Appeal
Nanzenji has twelve sub-temples, several of which are open to the public.
Nanzenji-in
Nanzenji-in, considered the birthplace of Nanzenji, occupies the site of retired Emperor Kameyama’s palace. The pond-circulating style garden, attributed to late Kamakura-period landscaping, is designated a Historic Site and Scenic Beauty, its moss-covered stones and clear flowing water creating a beautiful space of quiet.
Tenjuan
Tenjuan is a sub-temple dedicated to Nanzenji’s founding priest Mugan Fumon, featuring both dry landscape and pond-circulating style gardens. Its autumn foliage night illumination is renowned as among Kyoto’s most beautiful, with reflected leaves upon water creating a fantastical scene.
Konchi-in
Konchi-in served as residence to Ishin Sūden (Isodan), an advisor to Tokugawa Ieyasu. The garden “Crane and Turtle Garden” designed by Kobori Enshū is designated a Special National Scenic Beauty, and together with the tea room “Hassonoseki,” it transmits early Edo culture to the present.
Understanding Nanzenji’s Deep History
Nanzenji’s over 700-year history is closely intertwined with Japan’s political and cultural history. Let us trace its development through the eras.
The Kamakura Period: Founding and Establishment
In Shōō 4 (1291), retired Emperor Kameyama converted his palace into a Zen temple, inviting the recently returned Mugan Fumon from Song as the founding priest. This marks Nanzenji’s beginning. Initially called “Zenrin Zeniji,” it was later renamed “Nanzenji.” The temple’s name is said to derive from the palace being located south of Heian-kyō.
The Muromachi Period: Elevation to “Gozan no Ue”
During the era of the third Muromachi shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, Nanzenji was granted the special status of “Gozan no Ue,” positioned above the Five Temples of both Kyoto and Kamakura. This established Nanzenji at the apex of Japan’s Zen temples, granting it significant political and cultural influence.
The Sengoku Period: Deterioration from Warfare
During the Sengoku period’s turmoil, particularly the Ōnin War (1467-1477), Nanzenji’s buildings suffered significant damage. Numerous structures were lost to fire, and the temple’s fortunes temporarily declined.
The Edo Period: Recovery and Prosperity
Upon entering the Edo period, Nanzenji achieved recovery under the protection of Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Tokugawa Ieyasu. In Keichō 16 (1611), imperial palace buildings were relocated to create the current abbot’s residence, and in Kan’ei 5 (1628), Tōdō Takatora rebuilt the Sanmon. The principal temple buildings visible today were established during this period.
Meiji and After: Modernization and Preservation
Though affected by the Meiji Restoration’s suppression of Buddhism, Nanzenji was protected as an important cultural property. In Meiji 21 (1888), the Lake Biwa Canal’s Suirokaku was constructed within the grounds, creating a unique landscape where tradition and modernity coexist. Since the postwar period, Nanzenji has been designated National Treasure and Important Cultural Property status, with conservation and public access advancing.
Annual Events and Special Viewing at Nanzenji
Throughout the year, various events are held at Nanzenji. Timing your visit to coincide with these events allows deeper engagement with the temple’s culture.
Principal Annual Events
- New Year Services (January 1-3): Ceremonies welcoming the new year
- Nirvana Commemoration (February 15): Service honoring Buddha’s entry into Nirvana
- Flower Festival (April 8): Celebration of Buddha’s birth
- Founding Priest Commemoration (November 11-12): Service held on the founding priest Mugan Fumon’s death anniversary
- New Year’s Bell Tolling (December 31): The great bell struck on New Year’s Eve
Special Viewings
Ordinarily closed sub-temples occasionally open for special viewing. The Spring and Autumn Special Viewing of Non-Public Cultural Properties in Kyoto offers valuable opportunities to view normally inaccessible buildings and gardens.
Nanzenji’s Beauty Through the Seasons
Nanzenji displays different beauty in each season, offering fresh emotion regardless of when visited.
Spring: Season of Fresh Greenery and Cherry Blossoms
From late March through early April, cherry blossoms bloom throughout the temple grounds. Particularly beautiful are the cherry blossoms around the Suirokaku and those in the gardens of sub-temples, announcing spring’s arrival. From April through May, fresh green foliage is stunning, with the young maple leaves in the abbot’s residence garden displaying vivid green.
Summer: Deep Green and Silence
Summer at Nanzenji is enveloped in deep green, exuding an atmosphere of silence. The sound of water flowing through the Suirokaku from the Lake Biwa Canal brings coolness, alleviating the heat. Early morning visits are particularly refreshing, with few tourists allowing peaceful wandering through the grounds.
Autumn: One of Kyoto’s Premier Foliage Sites
From mid-to-late November, Nanzenji is crowded with visitors as a noted foliage destination. Beautiful autumn leaves can be enjoyed throughout the grounds, in the abbot’s residence garden, Tenjuan, and Nanzenji-in. The combination of the Suirokaku and foliage is especially spectacular, drawing many photography enthusiasts.
Winter: The Tranquility of Snow-Covered Landscape
Nanzenji on snowy days possesses extraordinary beauty. Snow accumulating on the white sand of the abbot’s residence garden creates an ink-wash painting-like world. The Sanmon and Suirokaku dressed in snow take on fantastical appearances unlike their usual aspect. Winter brings fewer tourists, allowing peaceful immersion in the Zen world.
Admission Information: Fees, Hours, and Time Required
Here is compiled essential information for visiting Nanzenji.
Admission Fees
- Abbot’s Residence Garden: General 600 yen, high school students 500 yen, elementary/middle school students 400 yen
- Sanmon Gate: General 600 yen, high school students 500 yen, elementary/middle school students 400 yen
- Nanzenji-in: General 400 yen, high school students 350 yen, elementary/middle school students 250 yen
- Temple Grounds (Suirokaku, etc.): Free
Sub-temples (Tenjuan, Konchi-in, etc.) require separate admission.
Admission Hours
- December 1 – February 28: 8:40 AM – 4:30 PM (admission ends at 4:10 PM)
- March 1 – November 30: 8:40 AM – 5:00 PM (admission ends at 4:40 PM)
General admission is suspended at year-end (December 28-31).
Recommended Time Requirements
- Grounds exploration only: 30 minutes to 1 hour
- Basic viewing including abbot’s residence and Sanmon: 1.5 to 2 hours
- Detailed viewing including sub-temples: 2.5 to 3 hours
During busy seasons such as foliage season, expect to require more than the above times.
Access Methods: Routes from Central Kyoto
Nanzenji, located at the foot of the Higashiyama mountains in Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, enjoys a relatively convenient location from the city center.
Access by Train and Subway
Kyoto Municipal Subway Tozai Line “Keage Station” is the nearest station.
- About 10 minutes walk from Exit 1 of Keage Station
- From Kyoto Station: Take the Kawasuji Line to Kawasuji-Oike Station, transfer to the Tozai Line bound for Keage Station (approximately 20 minutes total)
Access by Bus
For bus access:
- “Nanzenji-Eikandō-dōri” bus stop, about 10 minutes walk
- “Higashitennō-chō” bus stop, about 10 minutes walk
Bus Line 5 from Kyoto Station (bound for Iwakura Depot) is convenient.
Access by Taxi
- From Kyoto Station: Approximately 20 minutes, fare around 2,000 yen
- From Gion/Kawaramachi: Approximately 15 minutes, fare around 1,500 yen
Access by Automobile
Nanzenji has dedicated parking.
- Parking Spaces: Approximately 50 regular vehicles
- Parking Fee: 1,000 yen per hour, then 500 yen per 30 minutes thereafter
- Operating Hours: 8:40 AM – 5:00 PM
The parking lot often reaches capacity during busy seasons such as foliage season, so public transportation is recommended.
Nearby Tourist Attractions
Numerous tourist attractions are scattered around Nanzenji, and visiting them together offers enriching Kyoto sightseeing.
Eikandō (Zennin-ji)
About 5 minutes walk from Nanzenji, Eikandō is known as “Eikandō of the Maples,” a premier foliage destination. It houses the famous “Mikaeri Amida” (Amida Looking Back) Amida Buddha statue, and in autumn the grounds turn crimson.
Philosophy’s Path
Walking north from Nanzenji for about 15 minutes reaches the southern end of Philosophy’s Path. This approximately 2-kilometer walking trail follows the Lake Biwa Canal and is known for its cherry blossoms and autumn foliage. It takes its name from philosopher Nishida Kitarō, who would walk here in contemplation.
Heian Shrine
Located about 15 minutes west walk from Nanzenji, Heian Shrine was founded in Meiji 28 (1895) commemorating 1,100 years since the imperial capital’s move to Heian. Its vermilion great torii gate and expansive sacred garden are the main attractions.
Kyoto City Zoo
About 10 minutes walk from Nanzenji, Kyoto City Zoo was founded in Meiji 36 (1903), making it Japan’s second-oldest zoo. Though compact, it houses diverse animals and is popular with families.
Incline (Keage Incline)
The remains of an inclined railway constructed to overcome height differences in the Lake Biwa Canal, with 582 meters of track remaining. It becomes a cherry blossom tunnel in spring, attracting many visitors. About 5 minutes walk from Nanzenji.
Murin-an
The villa of Meiji and Taishō-era politician Yamagata Aritomo, with a garden by seven-generation Ogawa Jihei designated a National Scenic Beauty. The pond-circulating style garden using the eastern mountains as borrowed scenery ranks among Japan’s finest garden designs. About 5 minutes walk from Nanzenji.
Points and Etiquette for Visiting Nanzenji
Here are points to know for enhanced enjoyment of Nanzenji and consideration toward other visitors.
Clothing and Belongings
- Comfortable walking shoes: The grounds are expansive with stone and gravel paths, making comfortable shoes recommended.
- Seasonally appropriate clothing: Summer requires hats or parasols against strong sunlight; winter requires warm clothing.
- Camera: Numerous photography spots make cameras or fully charged smartphones worthwhile.
Tips for Avoiding Crowds
- Early morning visits: Shortly after opening at 8:40 AM is relatively uncrowded.
- Weekday visits: Weekends and holidays are crowded; weekdays are preferable if possible.
- Avoiding foliage season: Mid-to-late November is extremely crowded. Those preferring quiet viewing should choose another season.
Photography Etiquette
- Tripod use: Use may be restricted during crowded times.
- Consideration for other visitors: Avoid becoming so absorbed in photography as to inconvenience others.
- Building interiors: Photography is prohibited in some areas such as the abbot’s residence interior. Follow posted guidance.
Visitor Etiquette
- Quiet conduct: As a Zen temple, loud conversation should be avoided.
- Designated areas only: Do not enter restricted areas.
- No smoking or eating: Smoking and eating are prohibited outside designated areas.
Gourmet and Lunch Options Near Nanzenji
Recommended dining spots to visit before or after viewing Nanzenji.
Tofu Hot Pot Cuisine
The Nanzenji area is home to celebrated hot pot tofu restaurants. Establishments like “Junsei,” “Okutan,” and “Nanzenji Official Provider Hachichiyo” allow one to savor quality hot pot tofu while viewing gardens.
Vegetarian Buddhist Cuisine
Befitting a Zen temple, some establishments serve vegetarian Buddhist cuisine. Delicate dishes prepared from seasonal vegetables are both visually beautiful and spiritually satisfying.
Cafés
Recently, trendy cafés in converted traditional buildings have increased. A break in a Kyoto-style café after viewing is also recommended.
Trivia to Know Before Nanzenji Viewing
“Nanzenji’s Seven Mysteries”
Nanzenji holds traditions of “Seven Mysteries”:
- The Dragon on the Sanmon Second Story Ceiling: Appears to move when viewed from different angles
- The Nightingale Floorboards in the Abbot’s Residence: Flooring that produces distinctive sounds when walked upon
- The Tiger in the Tiger Room: Legend tells of a painted tiger that nightly drinks water
Searching for these during visits adds enjoyment.
Cultural Figures Associated with Nanzenji
Nanzenji is connected to many cultural figures. Natsume Sōseki’s novel “The Gate” features Nanzenji, and Junichirō Tanizaki also lived near the temple. Additionally, painter Hashimoto Kansetsu and philosopher Nishida Kitarō are known to have loved Nanzenji.
“Nanzenji-Steamed” Cuisine
“Nanzenji-Steamed” (Nanzeniji-mushi) is a savory custard-like dish using tofu, named after Nanzenji as a representative Kyoto cuisine. It can be sampled at nearby restaurants.
Conclusion: To Fully Savor Nanzenji’s Charm
Nanzenji, with its status as the highest-ranking Japanese Zen temple, National Treasure abbot’s residence and beautiful garden, magnificent Sanmon gate, and the Suirokaku creating unique landscape, stands as a premier tourist destination representing Kyoto.
Holding over 700 years of history while embracing the Meiji-era modern architecture of the Suirokaku, it creates a rare space where tradition and innovation coexist. Displaying different expressions through each season, there are always new discoveries on repeated visits, which is among Nanzenji’s great charms.
When visiting Kyoto, please take time to leisurely wander through Nanzenji. Placing yourself within the serene Zen world, beholding beautiful gardens, and touching historic structures creates experiences of spiritual cleansing. Combined with nearby Eikandō and Philosophy’s Path, one can thoroughly savor the charm of Kyoto’s Higashiyama district.
Nanzenji is not merely a tourist destination but a place embodying Japan’s spiritual culture. Contemplate its deep history and culture as you slowly walk through the grounds. It will surely become an unforgettable Kyoto memory.
