Miidera Temple / Onjoji Temple (Shiga Prefecture) Complete Guide | History, Highlights, and Access Information
Miidera Temple (Onjoji Temple), located on the southwestern shore of Lake Biwa in Otsu City, Shiga Prefecture, nestled halfway up Mount Naga, boasts a vast temple grounds and over 1,300 years of history as the head temple of the Tendai Jimon school. Its formal name is “Nagarasan Onjoji Temple (長等山園城寺),” and it is known as a treasure trove of cultural properties, housing 10 national treasures and 42 important cultural properties.
This article comprehensively introduces information you should know before visiting, from the historical background of Miidera to highlights within the temple grounds, seasonal attractions, and access information.
About Miidera Temple (Onjoji Temple) | Basic Information and the Origin of Its Name
Official Name and Common Names
Miidera Temple is formally called “Nagarasan Onjoji Temple,” but is commonly known by the nickname “Miidera Temple.” The name “Miidera” derives from a sacred spring that wells up in the temple grounds. This well, called the “Three Wells Sacred Spring,” is said to have been used as the bathing water for three emperors—Emperor Tenji, Emperor Tenmu, and Empress Jito—and because it was called “Mii (Sacred Well) Temple,” the name “Miidera Temple” became established.
Position as the Head Temple of the Tendai Jimon School
Miidera Temple is the head temple of the Tendai Jimon school, the central temple of a sect that branched off from the Tendai school with Mount Hiei’s Enryaku Temple as its head temple. During the Heian period, it was revived as a separate branch of Tendai by Chisho Daishi Enchin, the fifth head of the Tendai school, and underwent its own independent development. Through Enchin’s outstanding individuality and Buddhist scholarship, Miidera became an important center in Tendai learning, and the tradition of the Jimon sect that continues to this day was established.
Location and Basic Information
- Location: 246 Onjoji-cho, Otsu City, Shiga Prefecture
- Sect: Head temple of the Tendai Jimon school
- Founded: 7th century (during the reign of Emperor Tenji)
- Founder: Prince Otomo Yota (son of Emperor Tenji)
- Revived by: Chisho Daishi Enchin
- Principal Image: Maitreya Bodhisattva
- Cultural Properties: 10 national treasures, 42 important cultural properties
- Pilgrimage Sites: 14th temple of the Thirty-Three Kannon Pilgrimage Sites of Western Japan, Guest temple of the Thirty-Three Kannon Pilgrimage Sites of Omi
History of Miidera Temple | The Story of the “Phoenix Temple” Over 1,300 Years Old
From Founding to the Heian Period
The history of Miidera Temple dates back to the 7th century, during the reign of Emperor Tenji. It is said that Prince Otomo Yota, the son of Emperor Tenji, founded the temple to pray for the soul of his father the emperor. Initially a small temple, it underwent significant development during the Heian period under Chisho Daishi Enchin.
Enchin studied esoteric Buddhism during his time in Tang China and, after returning to Japan, became the head of the Tendai school at Mount Hiei. Subsequently, he reorganized Miidera as a separate branch of Tendai and established an independent system of Buddhist scholarship. This allowed Miidera to occupy a special position within the Tendai school, and it grew into a major temple with many monks and believers.
History of the Gempei War and Destruction
Miidera Temple bears the name “Phoenix Temple,” derived from its history of repeated destruction and reconstruction. From the late Heian period through the Kamakura period, it was repeatedly caught up in armed conflicts due to disputes with Mount Hiei’s Enryaku Temple.
During the Gempei War period, because it sided with the Minamoto clan, it was burned down by the Taira clan. It also suffered from warfare during the North-South Division period, with many buildings destroyed. Nevertheless, each time with support from the imperial court and military governments, it achieved reconstruction and recovered its temple strength.
Abolition and Revival Under Toyotomi Hideyoshi
The greatest crisis for Miidera came with its abolition by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. In 1595, Hideyoshi abolished Miidera Temple, which had ongoing conflicts with Mount Hiei, and moved many of its pagodas and halls to serve as construction materials for Fushimi Castle and Osaka Castle. The Golden Hall was moved to Fushimi Castle, and the bell tower to Fushimi Castle and then to the current Hokaiji Temple in Kyoto, leaving Miidera completely dismantled.
However, after Hideyoshi’s death, reconstruction began under the patronage of Tokugawa Ieyasu. During the early Edo period, many buildings were reconstructed, and most of the temple complex seen today was organized during this period. This history of reconstruction is truly worthy of the name “Phoenix Temple,” telling the story of Miidera’s indomitable spirit.
Highlights of the Temple Grounds | A Tour of National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties
The Miidera temple grounds are vast, with over 100 national treasures and important cultural properties scattered throughout. Here we introduce the main halls and cultural properties.
National Treasure: Golden Hall (Main Hall)
The Golden Hall is the central main hall of Miidera Temple and is designated a national treasure. The current building was reconstructed in 1599 after Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s abolition of the temple and is a precious structure preserving the architectural style of the Momoyama period. Inside, the principal image of Maitreya Bodhisattva is enshrined, enveloped in a solemn atmosphere.
The characteristics of the Golden Hall include its hip-and-gable roof with cypress shingles and the sculptures and decorations applied to every detail. The front overhang is decorated with carvings of dragons and lions, allowing visitors to experience the splendor of Momoyama culture.
Kannon Hall: 14th Temple of the Western Japan Thirty-Three Kannon Pilgrimage Sites
The Kannon Hall is visited by many pilgrims as the 14th pilgrimage site of the Thirty-Three Kannon Pilgrimage Sites of Western Japan. The principal image is the Nyoirin Kannon, and it is said to bring benefits such as warding off misfortune and good fortune.
From the Kannon Hall, one can view Lake Biwa in its entirety, and particularly during spring cherry blossoms and autumn foliage seasons, spectacular views can be enjoyed. Visitors can receive a pilgrimage stamp inside the hall, making it a must-visit place for those undertaking the Thirty-Three Kannon Pilgrimage.
Shakaido Hall and the Tang Hall
The Shakaido Hall is designated an important cultural property and enshrines Shakyamuni Buddha as its principal image. This building retains the architectural style of the Muromachi period and is characterized by its simple yet powerful structure.
The Tang Hall is a mausoleum dedicated to Chisho Daishi Enchin and is considered the spiritual center of Miidera. Inside the Tang Hall is the Great Master Hall, where a wooden statue of Enchin is enshrined. Within this serene atmosphere, one can feel the history and spirituality of Miidera.
The Three Wells Sacred Spring (Akaiya House)
The “Three Wells Sacred Spring,” which gave Miidera its name, is protected by a building called the Akaiya House. This sacred spring is said to have been used for the ceremonial bathing of the three emperors Tenji, Tenmu, and Jito, and pure water continues to spring forth even today.
The Akaiya House is designated an important cultural property and is a precious structure retaining the architectural style of the Kamakura period. Pure water still springs from the well inside, and one can directly feel its sanctity.
Omi Hakkei “The Evening Bell of Miidera”
The bell tower at Miidera houses a Buddhist bell known as one of the Eight Scenes of Omi, “The Evening Bell of Miidera.” This bell is also counted among Japan’s three famous bells, and its sound has been selected for “100 Selections of Japanese Soundscapes.”
The actual bell is preserved in the Sacred Bell Hall as an important cultural property, and what is in the bell tower today is a replica, though visitors can actually ring it (for a fee). The sound of the bell ringing at dusk, combined with the lakeside landscape, leaves a deep resonance in the heart.
The Legend of Benkei’s Dragged Bell
Miidera has a famous legend involving the warrior monk Musashibo Benkei. According to legend, Benkei stole the bell of Miidera during a dispute with Mount Hiei and dragged it up to Mount Hiei. However, when the bell was struck, it rang “Ino, Ino” (meaning “I want to go back”), and Benkei, in anger, threw the bell into a valley.
The bell from this legend (Benkei’s Dragged Bell) still remains in the temple grounds, and one can see the marks made during the dragging and depressions said to be Benkei’s fingerprints on its surface. This bell, designated an important cultural property, is a must-see cultural treasure for visitors to Miidera.
Niomon Gate and Niō Statues
The Niomon Gate at the main entrance of Miidera is a magnificent towered gate designated an important cultural property. Imposing Niō statues are enshrined on both sides of the gate, welcoming visitors.
After passing through the Niomon Gate, stone lanterns line both sides of the approach path, with stone steps visible continuing deeper into the temple. Simply walking this path allows one to feel the long history and high status of Miidera.
Seasonal Attractions | Cherry Blossom Illuminations and Autumn Foliage
Spring Cherry Blossoms | One of Kansai’s Foremost Cherry Blossom Spots
Miidera Temple has been selected as one of “Japan’s 100 Cherry Blossom Viewing Spots.” The grounds are planted with approximately 1,500 cherry trees including Somei Yoshino, wild mountain cherry, and weeping cherry varieties, blooming all at once from late March to early April.
Particularly around the Golden Hall and on the path to the Kannon Hall, the cherry blossoms form a tunnel-like canopy, creating an absolutely spectacular sight. The cherry blossoms set against the backdrop of Lake Biwa possess a unique beauty not seen elsewhere.
Night Cherry Blossom Illumination
During the cherry blossom season, nighttime illumination is provided. The contrast between the illuminated buildings and cherry blossoms in the darkness creates a dreamlike scene, presenting an entirely different appearance from daytime.
During the illumination period, viewing hours are extended beyond the usual times, allowing visitors to enjoy the cherry blossoms in the quiet of night. However, crowding is expected, so it is recommended to allow plenty of time for your visit.
Autumn Foliage | Spectacular Views Overlooking Lake Biwa
Autumn is also a season not to be missed at Miidera. From mid to late November, the maple and other foliage throughout the grounds turn color, adorning the Golden Hall and Kannon Hall. The combination of the foliage viewed from the Kannon Hall and Lake Biwa is particularly spectacular, attracting many photographers.
During the foliage season, illumination is sometimes provided, with trees tinted red and yellow rising into the night darkness in breathtakingly beautiful fashion.
Miidera and Japanese Poetry | A Celebrated Temple in Classical Literature
Miidera has long been celebrated in the verses of many poets. Particularly famous is the following tanka composed by former high priest Gyōson:
“Morotomoni / Aware to omohe / Yamazakura / Hana yori hoka ni / Shiru hito mo nashi”
Modern Language Translation and Commentary
This tanka can be translated to modern Japanese as follows:
“In this mountain where no one comes, my only friend is you (mountain cherry blossoms). So I earnestly hope you alone understand my heart.”
Gyōson was a monk who practiced at Miidera, and this tanka expresses how his heart was drawn to the mountain cherry blossoms amid his solitary practice. This poem is included in the “Senzai Wakashū” (Collection of One Thousand Years) and is transmitted to the present day as a representative tanka of Miidera.
When walking through the Miidera grounds, recalling this tanka while viewing the cherry blossoms will lend an additional dimension to your appreciation.
Viewing Information and Access
Viewing Hours and Admission Fees
- Viewing Hours: 8:00 AM–5:00 PM (Reception until 4:30 PM)
- Admission Fees:
- Adults: 600 yen
- Middle and high school students: 300 yen
- Elementary school students: 200 yen
- Special Viewing: During special public viewings of national treasures and important cultural properties, additional fees may apply
Access Methods
By Train
- From Keihan Ishiyama Sakamoto Line “Miidera Station,” approximately 10 minutes on foot
- From JR Biwa Lake Line “Otsu Station,” approximately 15 minutes on foot or about 5 minutes by Keihan Bus
By Car
- Approximately 10 minutes from “Otsu IC” on the Meishin Expressway
- Parking: 350 regular vehicle spaces available (fee required)
From Kyoto and Osaka Directions
- About 10 minutes from Kyoto Station by JR, getting off at Otsu Station
- From the Osaka area, approximately 40 minutes by rapid train
Nearby Tourist Attractions
When visiting Miidera, it is recommended to tour nearby tourist attractions as well.
- Lake Biwa Canal: A canal built in the Meiji era, also famous as a cherry blossom viewing spot
- Oumi Shrine: A shrine dedicated to Emperor Tenji, known as the sacred site of competitive card games
- Ishiyama Temple: A temple where Murasaki Shikibu is said to have written “The Tale of Genji”
- Enryaku Temple on Mount Hiei: The head temple of the Tendai school, with deep historical connections to Miidera
Special Viewings and Annual Events
Major Annual Events
Throughout the year, Miidera holds various religious services and events.
- January 1: Shushoē (Restoration Service)
- March: Chisho Daishi Memorial Service
- April: Hanamatsuri (Flower Festival / Bathing of the Buddha)
- August: Segaki Assembly
- October: Autumn Festival
- December 31: New Year’s Eve Bell Ringing
Lodging Experience at Shukubo “Wa-Ku Miidera”
Miidera has a temple lodging called “Wa-Ku Miidera” where visitors can stay within the temple grounds. Guests can participate in morning religious services, enjoy Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, and experience meditation—rare opportunities to experience what temple life offers.
By staying at the shukubo, one can touch the silence and spirituality of Miidera beyond what general sightseeing allows, achieving a deeper understanding of the temple’s attractions.
Precautions and Etiquette When Visiting Miidera
Pilgrimage Etiquette
- Clothing: As this is a sacred place, avoid clothing with excessive exposure
- Photography: Photography is prohibited inside certain halls. Follow posted signage
- Quiet: Maintain silence when viewing the temple grounds
- Smoking: The entire temple grounds are non-smoking
Recommended Times to Visit
Since Miidera has vast temple grounds, 2-3 hours are necessary for a leisurely viewing. Particularly during cherry blossom and autumn foliage seasons, crowds are expected, making early morning just after opening the best recommendation. The quiet morning grounds allow for peaceful, unhurried worship.
Conclusion | Experience the Charm of Miidera
Miidera (Onjoji Temple) is the head temple of the Tendai Jimon school with over 1,300 years of history, the “Phoenix Temple” that has overcome countless trials. Its national treasure Golden Hall, over 100 cultural properties, the Omi Hakkei “Evening Bell of Miidera,” the Benkei legend, and the ever-changing beauty of spring cherry blossoms and autumn foliage continue to captivate all who visit.
The temple grounds overlooking Lake Biwa represent a special space where history and nature harmonize in perfect balance. With convenient access from Kyoto and Osaka, this is a celebrated temple that should not be missed during a visit to the Kansai region.
The story of three emperors embedded in the sacred spring of Miidera, the spirituality built by Chisho Daishi Enchin, and the indomitable history of repeated reconstruction—all of these convey important messages to us in modern times.
When visiting Shiga Prefecture, please visit Miidera Temple and experience its deep history and culture, as well as its beautiful scenery, with all five senses. It will surely be a special experience remaining in your heart.
