A Masterpiece of Modern Japanese Garden: Murin-an, Designated Scenic Beauty – Complete Guide
Murin-an (無鄰菴), located at Nanzenji Kusakawa-cho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto City, is a precious cultural property designated as a scenic beauty of the nation, representing a Japanese garden that epitomizes the Meiji era. This garden was constructed under the vision of Yamagata Aritomo (1838-1922), a prominent politician of the Meiji and Taisho periods and elder statesman who profoundly influenced Japan’s modernization. It is highly regarded as a historical masterpiece that demonstrated new directions for modern Japanese gardens.
Murin-an Explained | Basic Information and Historical Background
The Origin of the Name Murin-an
The elegant name “Murin-an” was originally the name of a villa that Yamagata Aritomo owned in Kyoto. The name is said to derive from a line in the poem “Form, Shadow, and Spirit” (形影神) by the Chinese poet Tao Yuanming, meaning “without neighbors.” In fact, the current Murin-an is the third of three villas bearing this name—the first was located at Kiyamachi Nijo, the second at Nanzenji Kitanoboucho. The present Murin-an was constructed between 1896 (Meiji 29) and 1898 (Meiji 31) as the third iteration.
The Relationship Between Yamagata Aritomo and Murin-an
Yamagata Aritomo (1838-1922) was a military officer and politician from the Choshu domain who, following the Meiji Restoration, devoted himself to modernizing the Imperial Army and served twice as Prime Minister. He was one of the most important figures of the Meiji era. Beyond his role as a statesman, he was renowned as an accomplished landscape designer, creating many gardens throughout his lifetime.
Murin-an was the garden to which Yamagata dedicated the most effort, and he is known to have been involved in every detail of its design. He engaged Uheiji Ogawa VII (known as Shokuji), the distinguished landscape architect of his time, and through their close collaborative relationship, a revolutionary garden was completed that would innovate traditional Japanese garden forms.
Historical Significance | The Stage of the Murin-an Conference
Murin-an is far more than a beautiful garden; it occupies an extraordinarily important place in Japan’s modern history. On April 21, 1903 (Meiji 36), the “Murin-an Conference” was held in the main residence.
This conference brought together Japan’s highest leaders of the time—Yamagata Aritomo, Ito Hirobumi, Katsura Taro, and Komura Jutaro—to discuss diplomatic policy toward Russia. The decisions made at this conference became a crucial turning point leading to the Russo-Japanese War the following year. The main residence, which served as the stage of history, is preserved to this day and conveys the atmosphere of that era.
Murin-an’s Garden | Innovation in Modern Japanese Landscape Design
Characteristics of the Strolling Pond Garden
Murin-an’s garden is a strolling pond garden (chisen kaiyū-shiki) comprising approximately 3,135 square meters (about 950 tsubo). This garden style features a pond at its center, with pathways circling its perimeter, allowing visitors to enjoy diverse scenery as they stroll.
However, Murin-an’s garden sets itself apart from traditional strolling pond gardens by incorporating numerous innovative elements. Rather than emphasizing the symbolism and religiosity characteristic of previous Japanese gardens, it is defined by a bright, open spatial composition that prioritizes appreciation of natural landscape beauty.
Magnificent Views with the Eastern Mountains as Borrowed Scenery
One of Murin-an’s greatest charms is its commanding landscape that incorporates the thirty-six peaks of the Eastern Mountains (Higashiyama) as borrowed scenery. Borrowed scenery (shakkei) is a technique unique to Japanese landscape gardens in which natural scenery beyond the garden—such as mountains or forests—is presented as if it were part of the garden itself.
To the southeast of the garden, the ridges of the Eastern Mountains extend beautifully, positioned with perfect artistry as the backdrop. The view of Mount Daimonji is particularly spectacular, and the changing countenance of the Eastern Mountains throughout the seasons and hours of the day brings depth and variation to the garden.
Water Landscape Created by Harnessing the Lake Biwa Canal
Another major feature of Murin-an is its rich water scenery created by drawing water from the Lake Biwa Canal. The Lake Biwa Canal, completed in 1890 (Meiji 23), was a major project symbolizing Kyoto’s modernization.
At Murin-an, water from this canal is drawn into the garden, flowing through a three-tiered waterfall, a meandering stream, and a pond, imbuing the entire garden with vitality. The three-tiered waterfall, positioned in the garden’s northeast section, adds a pleasant acoustic accent to the tranquil garden space through the sound of flowing water.
The water’s flow is gentle, and the pond’s surface mirrors the surrounding landscape like a mirror. This water’s transparency and movement bring a refreshing coolness and sense of liveliness to the garden.
Revolutionary Plantings Centered on Lawn
One of the principal reasons Murin-an is called a masterpiece of modern Japanese gardening is the bold incorporation of lawn in its planting plan. Whereas previous Japanese gardens used moss and gravel as primary ground materials, Yamagata Aritomo incorporated elements of Western gardens, creating bright, open lawn spaces.
The green of the lawn provides a contrast to the deep green of the Eastern Mountains, bringing brightness and lightness to the entire garden. This lawn-centered composition was extremely innovative for its time and would profoundly influence subsequent modern Japanese gardens.
The placement of trees is meticulously calculated, with pines, Japanese maples, cherry trees, and azaleas creating seasonal transformations. Particularly during autumn’s foliage season, the harmony of colors created by the red of the maples, the green of the lawn, and the mountain ridges of the Eastern Mountains is magnificent.
The Garden Design Techniques of Ogawa Uheiji VII (Shokuji)
The landscape designer who undertook the creation of Murin-an was Ogawa Uheiji VII, known as “Shokuji” (植治). Shokuji was a prominent Kyoto landscape architect active from the Meiji through Taisho periods, creating numerous celebrated gardens including Murin-an, the Heian Shrine gardens, Maruyama Park, and Yohoken-so.
Shokuji’s characteristic landscape design approach involves naturalistic methods that seem to reproduce natural scenery directly within the garden. Stone arrangements and plantings are positioned with such naturalness that they lack any sense of artificial contrivance. At Murin-an, Yamagata Aritomo’s clear vision and Shokuji’s exceptional skill merged to create the finest masterpiece of modern Japanese garden design.
Murin-an’s Architecture | Main Residence and Tea House
Architectural Style of the Main Residence and Interior Space
The main residence of Murin-an is a two-story wooden sukiya-style structure designed as a unified composition with the garden. Each room offers different views of the garden, and from the upper floor’s sitting room, one can survey the entire garden with the Eastern Mountains as borrowed scenery.
The interior of the main residence is characterized by simple, refined design. Space can be freely transformed through the opening and closing of sliding doors and screen doors, creating a sense of unity with the garden. Fine materials and craftsmanship shine in details such as alcoves and transom windows.
The room where the historic Murin-an Conference took place is preserved, and standing in the space where statesmen once engaged in discussions that would determine Japan’s fate allows one to feel the weight of history tangibly.
The Tea House “Yabuuchi Ennan”
A tea house is also situated within the garden. This tea house is said to be a reproduction of the celebrated tea room “Ennan” (燕庵) preserved by the head family of the Yabuuchi school of tea ceremony in Kyoto. Spare yet dignified, the tea house’s space is ideal for savoring a moment of quietude during a garden stroll.
The view of the garden from the tea house is also carefully calculated, and the scenes framed by the entrance and windows possess the beauty of a single painted work of art.
Murin-an Through the Seasons | Seasonal Highlights
Spring | The Performance of Cherry Blossoms and New Verdure
In spring, Murin-an presents a beautiful contrast between the soft pink of cherry blossoms and the vivid green of the lawn. From late March through early April, the garden’s cherry trees bloom, announcing spring’s arrival alongside the wild cherry trees of the Eastern Mountains.
During the verdure season (late April through May), Japanese maples and other deciduous trees spread fresh young leaves, and the entire garden is suffused with vitality. The clear water flowing from the Lake Biwa Canal sparkles in the spring sunlight.
Summer | Deep Green and the Sound of Flowing Water’s Coolness
Summer transforms Murin-an into a hushed space enveloped in deep green. The lawn’s green deepens, and the leafy canopy of the trees creates deep shadows throughout the garden.
The season’s greatest charm lies in the water sounds from the three-tiered waterfall and streams. The sound of water brings coolness, offering Murin-an as an oasis during Kyoto’s humid summer. Visiting in early morning or evening allows one to experience even greater tranquility and refreshing coolness.
Autumn | The Spectacular Scenery of Crimson Foliage
Autumn is said to be the season when Murin-an is most beautiful. From mid-November through early December, the Japanese maples throughout the garden display brilliant crimson foliage, creating a breathtaking landscape in harmony with the green lawn and the autumn colors of the Eastern Mountains.
Particularly on clear afternoons, when the maple leaves are illuminated by the western sun, they glow with fiery red brilliance—a beauty beyond words. The inverted reflection of the foliage in the pond’s water is equally magnificent, drawing many photography enthusiasts during this season.
Winter | The Serene Beauty of Snow-Covered Landscape
Winter at Murin-an sees fewer visitors, and the garden wrapped in silence reveals its true essence. Particularly striking are snow-covered days, when snow accumulated on the lawn and trees transforms the garden into a silvery world.
The winter garden, with the snowy Eastern Mountains as borrowed scenery, possesses the beauty of an ink painting. The morning after a snowfall, when the pure white garden remains untouched by footprints, offers a fantastical, otherworldly vista.
Murin-an’s Highlights | Points for Garden Appreciation
Viewpoint 1 | The View from the Second Floor of the Main Residence
When visiting Murin-an, be sure to ascend to the second floor of the main residence. From here, one can take in the entire garden and the borrowed scenery of the Eastern Mountains—the finest vantage point.
Yamagata Aritomo is said to have gazed upon the garden from this location and given design directives from here. Seated in the sitting room with the sliding doors opened wide, the view resembles a painting framed within a hanging scroll.
Viewpoint 2 | The Area Around the Three-Tiered Waterfall
Located in the garden’s northeast section, the three-tiered waterfall is the centerpiece of Murin-an’s water scenery. Water drawn from the Lake Biwa Canal cascades in three stages, evoking the feeling of a natural mountain stream.
The stone arrangements surrounding the waterfall are skillfully positioned, allowing one to appreciate the high level of Shokuji’s design technique. Listening to the sound of the waterfall while viewing the surrounding greenery provides a moment of bliss that allows one to forget urban bustle.
Viewpoint 3 | The Pathways Circling the Pond
Walking the pathways that circle the pond allows one to enjoy the garden’s many facets. As one progresses, the scenery shifts, revealing new discoveries.
Particularly beautiful is the view northward from the south side of the pond, where the image of the Eastern Mountains reflected in the water is striking—an ideal spot for photography. Additionally, the experience of crossing the stepping stones set in the pond offers a precious opportunity to feel unity with the garden.
Viewpoint 4 | The Lawn Plaza
The expansive lawn in the garden’s central section epitomizes Murin-an’s open atmosphere. Standing here, the borrowed scenery of the Eastern Mountains appears in its finest light, allowing one to fully appreciate the garden’s expanse.
It is possible to sit on the lawn and view the garden (in designated areas), providing an opportunity for leisurely reflection.
Access to Murin-an and Tourist Information
Location and Basic Information
Address: 31 Nanzenji Kusakawa-cho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture
Opening Hours: 9:00 AM–6:00 PM (April–September); 9:00 AM–5:00 PM (October–March) *Last entry 30 minutes before closing*
Closed: December 29–31
Admission: ¥600 for adults; Free for junior high school students and younger (Fees subject to change)
Duration: Approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour
Access
By Train and Bus:
- Approximately 7 minutes’ walk from Keage Station on the Kyoto City Subway Tozai Line
- Approximately 10 minutes’ walk from Jingū-michi or Okazaki Park Museum/Heian Shrine bus stops on the Kyoto City Bus system
By Car:
- No dedicated parking; please use nearby coin parking lots
Nearby Tourist Attractions
Murin-an’s vicinity features many of Kyoto’s representative tourist destinations.
- Nanzenji (5 minutes’ walk): The head temple of the Nanzenji branch of Rinzai Zen Buddhism, famous for its San-mon gate and water aqueduct
- Eikan-do (Zenrin-ji) (10 minutes’ walk): An ancient temple renowned as a celebrated site for autumn foliage
- Heian Shrine (15 minutes’ walk): A shrine founded in the Meiji era featuring splendid gardens
- Philosopher’s Path (15 minutes’ walk): A scenic walking route lined with cherry trees
- Kyoto City Museum of Art (10 minutes’ walk): Reopened in 2020 as the Kyoto City Kyocera Museum of Art
It is recommended to tour the Okazaki and Nanzenji area over the course of a day, centered on Murin-an.
Deepening Your Appreciation of Murin-an
Taking Advantage of Guided Tours
Regular guided tours offering detailed explanations of Murin-an’s garden and building history and highlights are available at the site (advance reservation required). Guided interpretation by specialists significantly deepens one’s understanding of the garden.
In particular, one can gain specialized knowledge regarding the collaborative relationship between Yamagata Aritomo and Shokuji in garden design, the historical significance of the Murin-an Conference, borrowed scenery techniques, and related topics.
Special Opening Events
Spring and autumn may feature special events such as tea ceremonies in normally closed tea houses or nighttime special openings. The nighttime garden, when illuminated, reveals an entirely different, fantastical beauty from that seen during the day.
Checking the official website and Kyoto City Tourist Association information for special events is recommended.
Photography Etiquette
Photography is permitted at Murin-an, but the use of tripods or monopods is prohibited. Additionally, one should observe proper manners to avoid disturbing other visitors.
During the busy autumn foliage season in particular, visiting shortly after opening in the early morning allows one to enjoy photography in a relatively quiet environment.
Appreciating with Unhurried Time
To truly savor Murin-an’s beauty, it is essential not to rush through but rather to spend time slowly walking the garden and observing it from seated positions.
Sitting on the main residence’s veranda or a garden bench, feeling the season’s breeze, listening to the water’s sound, and calmly taking in the borrowed scenery of the Eastern Mountains—such a luxurious manner of spending time is possible at Murin-an.
Murin-an’s Influence on Posterity
Pioneer of Modern Japanese Garden Design
Murin-an occupies an extremely important position in the history of landscape design as a pioneering garden that demonstrated new directions for modern Japanese gardens.
Rather than the religious and symbolic elements characteristic of previous Japanese gardens, it presented a new value system: the appreciation of natural beauty itself. The revolutionary elements of Murin-an—the bold incorporation of lawn creating a bright spatial composition, water scenery utilizing modern infrastructure in the form of the Lake Biwa Canal, and an open vista incorporating the Eastern Mountains as borrowed scenery—exerted great influence on subsequent Japanese gardens.
The Establishment of the Shokuji Style
The success at Murin-an established the reputation of Ogawa Uheiji VII beyond question. Thereafter, Shokuji undertook numerous celebrated Kyoto gardens including the Heian Shrine gardens, Maruyama Park, Tairyuzan-so, and Seifuso, establishing his distinctive design approach known as the “Shokuji style.”
The naturalistic, bright, and open Shokuji style continues to exert significant influence on contemporary Japanese gardens.
Value as a Cultural Property
Murin-an was designated a national scenic beauty in 1924 (Taisho 13) and is protected as an important cultural property of Japan. Including not only the garden but also architectural structures such as the main residence and tea house, it represents a precious heritage conveying the villa culture of the Meiji era to the present day.
Currently managed by a public interest organization and opened to the general public, it has become a place where many can directly experience the masterpiece of modern Japanese garden design.
Conclusion | Experience Murin-an’s Charm
Murin-an is the finest masterpiece of modern Japanese landscape design, created through the collaboration of Yamagata Aritomo, an elder statesman of the Meiji period, and Ogawa Uheiji VII (Shokuji), a celebrated landscape architect. The commanding scenery incorporating the Eastern Mountains as borrowed scenery, the clear water of the Lake Biwa Canal, and the bright, open spatial composition centered on lawn represent revolutionary elements never before seen in Japanese gardens.
Historically, it served as the stage of the Murin-an Conference, which led to the outbreak of the Russo-Japanese War, making it an important location where beauty and history converge in a rare fusion.
When visiting Kyoto, beyond touring only the famous temples and shrines, be sure to visit Murin-an. By spending unhurried time in its tranquil garden, you will discover new attractions of Japanese garden design. With its ever-changing appearance through the seasons, Murin-an is a hidden masterpiece of Kyoto that offers fresh inspiration with each visit.
