Hōkyōin (Kyoto) Complete Guide | Peak Autumn Foliage Season, History, and Access Thoroughly Explained
Hōkyōin (宝筐院), nestled in a quiet corner of Sagano in Kyoto, is a historic temple with roots extending back to the Heian period. It is known as a rare temple in Kyoto for its unique history: the graves of Ashikaga Yoshiakira, the second shogun of the Muromachi shogunate, and Kusunoki Masatsura, a Southern Court general—two men who were once enemies—stand peacefully side by side. Particularly celebrated as a renowned autumn foliage viewing spot, when fall arrives, the vivid maple leaf carpet that covers the stone-paved approach captivates all who visit.
History and Origins of Hōkyōin
From Heian Period Founding to the Present Day
Hōkyōin was founded around 1072–1085 in the Heian period as an imperial temple dedicated by Emperor Shirakawa. Originally called Zennyū-ji (善入寺), it served as an important imperial prayer temple. The mountain name is Zennyū-zan (善入山), and the principal image is the Eleven-Headed Thousand-Armed Avalokiteśvara.
During the Northern and Southern Courts period, the temple was revitalized through the efforts of Mokuan Shūyu (黙庵周諭), a senior disciple of the renowned Zen master Musō Soseki. During this period, under the patronage of Ashikaga Yoshiakira, the second shogun of the Muromachi shogunate, the temple’s structures were restored, and it was temporarily renamed “Kanrinji.”
The Origin of the Name “Hōkyōin”
The current temple name “Hōkyōin” derives from the posthumous Buddhist name (in’gō) of Ashikaga Yoshiakira. Yoshiakira died at the young age of 38 in 1367 (Jōji 6), and following his death, the temple was renamed after his posthumous name “Hōkyōin-dono.” This reflects Yoshiakira’s deep devotion to this temple, which he had designated as his own family temple for Buddhist memorial services.
Characteristics as an Independent Rinzai Zen Temple
Hōkyōin currently operates as an independent temple affiliated with Rinzai Zen. By not belonging to a particular sect, the temple maintains its own independent management policies and traditions. This structure enables flexible activities that transcend sectarian boundaries, allowing the temple to welcome many visitors.
The Graves of Ashikaga Yoshiakira and Kusunoki Masatsura
A Tale of Bonds Beyond Enemy Lines
Within the temple grounds of Hōkyōin stand the graves of two generals from the Northern and Southern Courts period who fought on opposing sides: Ashikaga Yoshiakira and Kusunoki Masatsura, positioned side by side. This is an extremely rare sight in Japanese history.
Kusunoki Masatsura is known as the eldest son of Kusunoki Masashige, a celebrated general of the Southern Court. In 1348 (Jōji 4 or Shōhei 3 in the southern calendar), at the Battle of Shijōnawate, he fought against the Northern Court forces and died in battle at just 23 years old. Masatsura’s head was sent to Kyoto, and a five-ring stone pagoda believed to be his burial mound stands at Hōkyōin.
Yoshiakira’s Deathbed Wish and Respect for Masatsura
Ashikaga Yoshiakira is said to have deeply admired the martial prowess and character of his enemy, Kusunoki Masatsura. According to legend, as Yoshiakira lay dying, he left a deathbed wish: “Let me be buried beside Masatsura.” In accordance with this wish, a three-tiered stone pagoda marking Yoshiakira’s grave was erected next to Masatsura’s burial mound.
This arrangement embodies the samurai spirit of “admirable even as an enemy,” serving as a symbol of respect and friendship transcending the battlefield. It attracts considerable attention from history enthusiasts and scholars.
Characteristics and Points of Interest at the Burial Site
Masatsura’s burial mound takes the form of a five-ring stone pagoda, featuring the austere and sturdy construction befitting a Southern Court general. In contrast, Yoshiakira’s grave is a three-tiered stone pagoda, possessing the formality appropriate to a shogun of the Muromachi shogunate. The two graves are positioned in a quiet area of the temple grounds, quietly speaking to visitors of the weight of history and the depth of human bonds.
Hōkyōin as a Premier Autumn Foliage Viewing Spot
Kyoto’s Finest Autumn Colors
Hōkyōin is renowned as one of Kyoto’s premier autumn foliage viewing destinations. The temple grounds are home to numerous Acer palmatum and Acer japonicum maples, as well as enkianthus, which in autumn create a brilliant gradient of red, orange, and yellow that envelops the entire temple grounds.
Particularly remarkable is the stone-paved approach beyond the gate, which creates a tunnel-like panorama of maple leaves. The colorful maples arching overhead from both sides of the path create a fantastical atmosphere, painting the visitors’ heads with autumn colors.
Peak Foliage Viewing Season
The autumn foliage at Hōkyōin typically begins to color around mid-November. The peak season is from late November through early December, when the entire temple grounds are engulfed in fiery autumn colors.
The period from late autumn into early winter is particularly remarkable for its scattered foliage (chirimomiji). Fallen maple leaves accumulating on the stone pavement and moss create a red carpet effect, providing a spectacular contrast with the remaining colored leaves on the branches above.
Foliage Viewing Spots Throughout the Temple Grounds
Maple Leaf Tunnel Along the Approach
The stone-paved approach from the gate to the main hall represents the quintessential autumn foliage scenery of Hōkyōin. The maple branches stretching overhead create a canopy of falling leaves, as if pouring down from above.
Garden in Front of the Main Hall
The garden spreading before the main hall features beautiful design incorporating borrowed scenery, with the entire area turning vivid with autumn colors during the foliage season. The contrast with the moss within the garden is beautiful, allowing full appreciation of Japanese garden aesthetics.
Area Surrounding the Burial Site
The area around the graves of Ashikaga Yoshiakira and Kusunoki Masatsura is also a quiet autumn foliage viewing spot. The combination of historic stone pagodas and maple leaves creates a solemn and evocative atmosphere.
Photography Notes
At Hōkyōin, tripods and monopods are prohibited to preserve the temple grounds and show consideration for other visitors. When photographing, please use handheld cameras and always be mindful of those around you. Also, the peak foliage season attracts many visitors, so early morning viewing is recommended.
Notable Sights Within the Temple Grounds
Main Hall and Principal Image
The main hall of Hōkyōin houses the principal image, the Eleven-Headed Thousand-Armed Avalokiteśvara. This Kannon has long been revered as a bodhisattva who relieves people’s suffering and fulfills their wishes. The interior of the main hall has a tranquil atmosphere, providing a quiet space for contemplation.
Beauty of the Garden
The garden at Hōkyōin is a beautiful Japanese garden displaying different characteristics throughout the seasons. Beyond just the autumn foliage season, the fresh green of spring is striking to the eye, and in early summer the white flowers of enkianthus bloom brilliantly. In winter, the snow-covered garden reveals a serene beauty, making it worth visiting throughout the year.
The moss garden is also remarkable, with meticulously maintained moss carpeting the ground and creating a moist, refined ambiance. The moss garden is particularly beautiful after rainfall, with the varying shades of green standing out vividly.
Stone-Paved Approach
The stone-paved approach running from the gate to the main hall is the face of Hōkyōin. The carefully laid stone pavement evokes the dignity of long history, and simply walking upon it brings the mind peace. During the autumn foliage season, fallen leaves cover the stone pavement, creating a beautiful landscape like a red carpet.
Basic Information and Access
Visiting Information
Viewing Hours
9:00 AM–4:00 PM (Reception until 3:30 PM)
※Viewing hours may change seasonally, particularly during peak foliage season. Please confirm the latest information on the official website.
Admission Fee
Adults: 600 yen
※Group discounts and fee changes during special viewings may apply.
Closed Days
Irregular closures
※The temple may be closed for religious services, so advance confirmation is recommended.
How to Get There
By Train and Bus
- Approximately 15 minutes walk from Sagano Station on the JR Sagano Line
- Approximately 20 minutes walk from Arashiyama Station on the Keifuku Arashiyama Line
- Approximately 3 minutes walk from Sagashakakadomae bus stop (City Bus/Kyoto Bus)
The Sagano area is developed as a tourist destination, and since Hōkyōin is located just west of Ryōanji (Sagashakakadomae), walking is comfortable.
By Private Vehicle
Hōkyōin does not have a dedicated parking lot. Please use paid parking in the surrounding area or public transportation. The autumn foliage season is especially crowded, making train or bus access convenient.
Address
〒616-8424
9-1 Sagashakakadomonzen Minami Nakaain-chō, Ukyō Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture
Nearby Tourist Attractions
Ryōanji (Sagashakakadomae)
Ryōanji, popularly known as “Sagashakakadomae,” is located immediately east of Hōkyōin. A historic temple with the National Treasure statue of Śākyamuni as its principal image, the expansive grounds preserve numerous cultural properties. Visiting both temples together allows deeper understanding of Sagano’s history.
Arashiyama and Togetsu Bridge Area
Within walking distance of Hōkyōin is Arashiyama, one of Kyoto’s representative tourist destinations. The view from Togetsu Bridge is beautiful through all seasons, and the area is particularly busy with tourists during autumn foliage season. Surrounding attractions include the Bamboo Grove and Tenryū-ji Temple, with abundant points of interest.
Togetsu-tei
In the Arashiyama area, the long-established kaiseki restaurant “Togetsu-tei” serves Kyoto cuisine. Situated along the Katsura River, it offers seasonal Kyoto cuisine while enjoying beautiful scenery. Enjoying a leisurely meal here after foliage viewing at Hōkyōin is also recommended.
Nisonnin and Jōjakko-ji
Other autumn foliage viewing spots dot the Sagano area besides Hōkyōin. The approach at Nisonnin known as the “Red Leaf Horse Path” and the autumn leaves surrounding the Tahōtō pagoda at Jōjakko-ji are also spectacular. Those with time to spare can enjoy foliage-viewing tours of these temples as well.
Etiquette and Precautions When Visiting
Photography Etiquette
As mentioned previously, the use of tripods and monopods is prohibited at Hōkyōin. When photographing, ensure your conduct does not inconvenience other visitors. The temple grounds are a place for quiet contemplation, so please refrain from loud conversation.
Dealing with Crowding
The peak foliage season, particularly weekends in late November, is very crowded. Those wishing to view the temple leisurely should visit on weekday mornings. Around 9 AM, shortly after opening, the temple is relatively uncrowded, allowing quiet enjoyment of the foliage in morning light.
Clothing and Items to Bring
The temple grounds feature many stone-paved and earthen paths, so comfortable walking shoes are recommended. The foliage season can be chilly, so bringing a jacket is advisable. During rainy weather, footing becomes slippery, so caution is necessary.
Hōkyōin Through the Four Seasons
Spring Fresh Greenery
In spring, the fresh green foliage of Hōkyōin is particularly striking. The young maple leaves glow in a vivid yellow-green, creating a vibrant landscape. The white flowers of enkianthus also bloom, adding spring-like elegance to the temple grounds.
Summer Deep Green
In summer, the temple grounds wrapped in deep green exude a refreshing atmosphere. The moss garden’s greenery deepens as well, creating a moist, refined ambiance. With relatively few tourists, this is a quiet season for contemplation.
Autumn Foliage
Autumn is when Hōkyōin shines most brilliantly. From mid-November through early December, the entire temple grounds are painted in the vivid colors of red, orange, and yellow. The beauty of scattered foliage is particularly exceptional, with fallen leaves covering the stone pavement and moss creating a landscape like a painting.
Winter Quietude
Winter at Hōkyōin is filled with serene beauty. When snow falls, the snow-covered grounds create a fantastical atmosphere. With few tourists, this is a season for leisurely contemplation.
Cultural Significance of Hōkyōin
Conveying the History of the Northern and Southern Courts Period
Hōkyōin is a precious historic site that transmits to the present the Northern and Southern Courts period, a crucial moment in Japanese history. The graves of Ashikaga Yoshiakira and Kusunoki Masatsura, standing side by side transcending their opposing positions, speak to the spirituality of the samurai and the complexity of human relationships in that era.
Kyoto’s Garden Culture
The garden at Hōkyōin represents the pinnacle of Kyoto’s garden culture. It expresses the passage of the seasons with subtlety and pursues the harmony between nature and human artifice—the essence of Japanese garden aesthetics is concentrated here. The presentation of autumn foliage is particularly masterful, exemplifying the careful consideration given to bringing out nature’s beauty to its fullest.
Rinzai Zen Buddhist Culture
As a Rinzai Zen affiliated temple, Hōkyōin embodies Zen spirituality. The temple grounds, simple yet imbued with deep spiritual meaning, reflect the Zen philosophy of “emptiness” (sunyatā). Walking quietly through the grounds allows one to achieve a peace of mind removed from everyday turmoil.
Conclusion
Hōkyōin is a singular temple combining three remarkable qualities: a history spanning from the Heian period, the historical narrative of generals from the Northern and Southern Courts period, and Kyoto’s premier autumn foliage beauty. The graves of Ashikaga Yoshiakira and Kusunoki Masatsura standing side by side hold historical significance, while the overwhelming beauty of autumn foliage moves all who visit.
This temple, nestled in a quiet corner of Sagano, stands slightly apart from the bustle of Kyoto tourism, yet is well worth the visit. While renowned as an autumn foliage viewing spot, each season offers its own distinct beauty, revealing new discoveries with each visit.
When visiting Kyoto, be sure to stop by Hōkyōin. An unforgettable experience awaits, where the weight of history and the beauty of nature harmonize perfectly.
