Futaiji Temple (Nara Prefecture) Complete Guide: History, Highlights, and Access Information of Narihira Temple, Associated with Ariwara no Narihira
Futaiji Temple (ふたいじ), located in Hōren-chō, Nara City, is an ancient temple associated with Ariwara no Narihira (ありわらのなりひら), known as one of the Six Poetry Immortals of the Heian period. Also called “Narihira Temple” (業平寺), it is positioned in a quiet residential area slightly removed from central Nara, yet as a valuable temple housing national treasures and important cultural properties, it receives high praise from history enthusiasts and Buddhist art fans.
This article comprehensively introduces information you should know before visiting Futaiji Temple, covering its historical background, highlights within the temple grounds, visiting information, and access methods.
History and Origins of Futaiji Temple
Circumstances of Establishment and Connection to Ariwara no Narihira
The founding of Futaiji Temple dates back to 847 (Jōwa 14). The founder was Ariwara no Narihira, a nobleman of the early Heian period and said to be the model for the protagonist of “The Tales of Ise.” Narihira, despite having the noble bloodline of a grandson of Emperor Heizei, took the name Ariwara through imperial descent to commoner status, and was known for his beauty and talent in waka poetry.
According to legend, Narihira established a temple on this site, which was the location of his grandfather Emperor Heizei’s detached palace, and enshrined a statue of Kannon Bodhisattva that he himself had carved as the principal image. The temple’s name “Futaiji” is said to represent the determination of “non-retreat” (fuitaitenn), expressing unwavering commitment in Buddhist practice, reflecting the depth of Narihira’s faith.
Importance as the Site of Emperor Heizei’s Detached Palace
The location where Futaiji Temple stands was originally the site of Emperor Heizei’s detached palace, known as “Kaya no Gosho” (the Palace of Thatch). Emperor Heizei reigned for only three years before abdicating to Emperor Saga, and spent his remaining years at this detached palace. Though Emperor Heizei the Retired was at the center of the political turmoil known as the Fujiwara no Kusuko Incident (810), this location is also an important historical site connected to the imperial family.
It is believed that Narihira chose this location to establish the temple due to his yearning to honor his grandfather and his desire to maintain pride as a member of the imperial family.
Changes in Futaiji Temple and Development to the Present Day
Since its founding, Futaiji Temple has experienced several fires and periods of warfare, yet has been rebuilt each time. The current main hall was reconstructed during the Kanun era (1661-1673) of the Edo period, but retains strong elements of Heian-period architectural style and is designated as an important cultural property.
The temple survived the wave of anti-Buddhist sentiment during the Meiji period and underwent grounds improvements during the Showa period. It currently belongs to the Shingon Ritsu sect and continues to convey the spirit of those times in its quiet setting.
Highlights and Cultural Properties of Futaiji Temple
National Treasure: Standing Statue of Kannon Bodhisattva
The greatest treasure of Futaiji Temple is the Standing Statue of Kannon Bodhisattva (National Treasure) enshrined in the main hall. This Buddhist statue is said to have been carved by Ariwara no Narihira himself and was designated a National Treasure in 1952 as a precious example from the early Heian period.
The statue stands approximately 209 centimeters tall and was created using the “one-wood carving” technique (ichiboku-zukuri), in which a single piece of timber is carved. The full-figured and graceful face, the flowing expression of drapery, and the overall serene and compassionate expression exemplify the characteristics of early Heian Buddhist sculpture.
The statue is normally enshrined within a shrine cabinet and can be closely observed during special viewing periods. This National Treasure is highly valued in art history as an important work demonstrating the transition from the powerful expression of the Nara period to the elegant style of the Heian period.
Important Cultural Property: Main Hall (South Great Gate)
The main hall of Futaiji Temple, though reconstructed in the early Edo period, follows Heian-period architectural conventions and is designated as an important cultural property.
The building features a hip-and-gable roof with roof tiles, measuring five bays on the front and four bays on the sides. What is characteristic is that the pillars are thick, the eaves are deep, and the overall structure conveys a sense of solid stability. Inside the hall, besides the principal image of the Kannon Bodhisattva, flanking deities include a statue of Fudō Myō-ō (Immovable Buddha) and a statue of Bishamon-ten (Vaiśravaṇa).
The hall’s interior decoration is relatively simple, which actually serves to emphasize the presence of the Buddhist statues and creates a serene space for prayer.
Other Important Cultural Properties
Futaiji Temple houses several other important cultural properties:
Five Great Wisdom Kings Statues: The five great wisdom kings (Fudō Myō-ō, Gozanze Myō-ō, Gundari Myō-ō, Daiitoku Myō-ō, and Kongō Yasha Myō-ō) enshrined in the main hall are believed to date from the late Heian period and are designated important cultural properties as excellent examples of esoteric Buddhist art.
Many-Treasured Pagoda: The many-treasured pagoda (tahōtō) standing within the temple grounds is also designated as an important cultural property. Although built during the Edo period, its well-proportioned and beautiful form enhances the temple grounds’ landscape.
Portrait of Ariwara no Narihira: A portrait of Narihira is also housed here, serving as a valuable resource for understanding the appearance of Heian-period nobility.
Seasonal Flowers Throughout the Temple Grounds
Futaiji Temple is also known as the “Temple of Flowers.” Particularly famous is the Narihira camellia, which blooms in early summer. Named after Ariwara no Narihira, this camellia produces delicate flowers around May. While camellias typically bloom in early spring, the Narihira camellia is a rare variety that blooms in early summer and has become a specialty of Futaiji Temple.
Additionally, spring brings cherry blossoms, summer brings lotus flowers, and autumn brings lespedeza and autumn leaves, with various flowers adorning the temple grounds throughout the seasons. The autumn lespedeza in particular is spectacular, and the temple is also called the “Temple of Lespedeza.” Visiting during the peak bloom of these flowers will allow you to enjoy the charm of Futaiji Temple all the more.
The World of Ariwara no Narihira and The Tales of Ise
Ariwara no Narihira as a Historical Figure
Ariwara no Narihira (825-880) was a renowned poet of the early Heian period, numbered among the Six Poetry Immortals and the Thirty-Six Poetry Immortals. Born as the grandson of Emperor Heizei, Narihira took the name Ariwara through imperial descent to commoner status, placing him in a delicate position within aristocratic society.
However, his beauty, poetic talent, and freewheeling romantic adventures became well-known at the time and left many legends for posterity. Thirty of his poems appear in the “Collection of Japanese Poems of Ancient and Modern Times” (Kokin Wakashū) and twenty-seven in the “Collection of Poems of Later Selection” (Gosen Wakashū), and his passionate and sophisticated poetic style, called “Narihira manner” (Narihira-buri), exerted great influence on poets of later generations.
Connection to The Tales of Ise
The protagonist “the man of long ago” (mukashi-otoko) in “The Tales of Ise,” a uta-monogatari (poem tale) established in the early Heian period, is believed to be modeled on Ariwara no Narihira. This work, consisting of 125 sections, is said to be based on Narihira’s life and romantic adventures and depicts a refined world woven together by waka and prose.
Particularly famous is the section titled “Journey to the East” (Azuma kudari), which records the poems Narihira composed in various places as he traveled east after leaving the capital. The famous poem “From long ago now worn, this robe of Chinese silk makes me think of how far I’ve come on this journey” continues to be beloved by many today.
Visiting Futaiji Temple carries special significance for literature lovers, as it allows one to touch the world of Heian literature.
Visiting Information for Futaiji Temple
Hours and Admission Fee
Visiting Hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM (Reception until 4:30 PM)
Closed Days: Irregular closures (advance confirmation recommended)
Admission Fee:
- Adults: 500 yen
- High school and middle school students: 300 yen
- Elementary school students: 200 yen
*Fees may differ during special viewing periods or for group visits.
*The National Treasure statue of Kannon Bodhisattva is normally enshrined within a shrine cabinet and can be closely viewed only during special exhibition periods.
Special Viewing and Events Information
Throughout the year, Futaiji Temple holds several special viewings and events:
Spring Special Viewing (Late March – Early May): Held to coincide with the blooming period of the Narihira camellia.
Autumn Special Viewing (Late September – Early November): Special viewing coordinated with the peak bloom of lespedeza flowers.
Narihira Memorial Service (May 28): A religious service held on the anniversary of Ariwara no Narihira’s death.
During these periods, cultural properties not normally open to the public may be specially exhibited. It is recommended to check official information in advance.
Photography Guidelines
Photography within the temple grounds is generally permitted, but photography of the main hall’s interior and Buddhist statues is prohibited. Additionally, be mindful not to disturb other worshippers when taking photographs.
Access Methods and Surrounding Information
Access by Train and Bus
By Kintetsu Railway:
- Get off at Kintetsu Nara Line “Kintetsu Nara Station”
- Approximately 15 minutes walk from the station, or accessible by bus
By JR:
- Get off at JR Nara Line “Nara Station”
- Approximately 20 minutes walk from the station, or accessible by bus
By Bus:
- From Kintetsu Nara Station or JR Nara Station, board Nara Kotsu Bus bound for “Air Self-Defense Force Front”
- Get off at “Hōren-chō” bus stop, approximately 5 minutes walk
Access by Automobile and Parking
By Automobile:
- Approximately 10 minutes from “Hōrai IC” on the Second Hanwa Expressway
- Approximately 20 minutes from “Kizu IC” on the Kyoto-Nara Expressway
Parking Lot: Free parking available on temple grounds (approximately 10 vehicles)
*May be full during crowded seasons such as cherry blossom and lespedeza viewing periods.
Nearby Sightseeing Spots
In the vicinity of Futaiji Temple are several sites with quiet charm differing from Nara’s major sightseeing areas:
Hokkeji Temple: Approximately 10 minutes walk from Futaiji Temple. A monzeki temple associated with Empress Kōmyō, known for its National Treasure statue of the Eleven-Faced Kannon Bodhisattva.
Kairyūōji Temple: Adjacent to Hokkeji Temple, this ancient temple is famous for its National Treasure five-story pagoda.
Heijō Palace Ruins: Approximately 1.5 km south of Futaiji Temple. A World Heritage site featuring the ruins of the Nara-period imperial palace, where reconstructed structures such as the Great Hall of State can be viewed.
It is also recommended to plan a tour combining these sites to explore Nara’s “northern area.”
Tips for Visiting Futaiji Temple
Recommended Times to Visit
Futaiji Temple has beauty throughout the four seasons, but particularly recommended times are:
Early to mid-May: The Narihira camellia reaches full bloom. You can enjoy this rare camellia in the fresh atmosphere of early summer.
Late September to early October: Lespedeza flowers adorn the temple grounds. The sight of lespedeza, one of the seven autumn grasses, in full bloom is magnificent.
Mid to late November: The season of autumn leaves. Unlike Nara Park, which tends to be crowded, you can enjoy the autumn colors in a peaceful setting.
Estimated Time Required
The temple grounds are not particularly large, so a typical viewing takes approximately 30 minutes to 1 hour. However, if you wish to closely appreciate the Buddhist statues, enjoy the flowers throughout the grounds, or spend time in quiet meditation, it is advisable to allow 1.5 to 2 hours.
Clothing and Items to Bring
When viewing the main hall’s interior, shoes must be removed, so shoes that are easy to slip on and off are recommended. In summer, the sun can be strong, so a hat or parasol is useful. In winter, the temple grounds can become cold, so do not forget protective clothing.
If bringing a camera, observe photography etiquette and especially respect the rule prohibiting photography inside the main hall.
Understanding the Charm of Futaiji Temple More Deeply
Benefits of Prior Study
To more deeply appreciate the charm of Futaiji Temple, it is recommended to do some preparation before your visit:
- Read “The Tales of Ise”: Understanding the world of Ariwara no Narihira deepens your understanding of Futaiji Temple. Many modern Japanese translations are available.
- Learn about Heian Period History: Understanding the historical events behind the temple’s founding—Emperor Heizei, the Fujiwara no Kusuko Incident, imperial descent to commoner status—will clarify the temple’s significance.
- Study Basics of Buddhist Art: Knowing the characteristics of early Heian Buddhist statues (one-wood carving, wave-pattern drapery) will enhance your appreciation of the National Treasure sculpture.
Guided Tours and Explanations
At Futaiji Temple, explanations by the head priest or temple staff may be available upon advance reservation. Hearing expert commentary on the cultural properties and temple history provides understanding not obtainable during typical visits.
If you are visiting as a group or particularly desire detailed explanations, it is recommended to contact the temple in advance.
Etiquette and Precautions When Visiting Futaiji Temple
Worshipping Etiquette
Futaiji Temple is an active temple and a place of faith. Observe the following etiquette when visiting:
- Bow once when passing through the temple gate
- Offer quiet prayer and reverence within the main hall
- Avoid loud conversation and disruptive behavior
- Refrain from entering designated off-limits areas
- Do not touch Buddhist statues or cultural properties
Photography Etiquette
As mentioned previously, photography inside the main hall is prohibited. Additionally, when photographing within the temple grounds:
- Be considerate so other worshippers do not appear in photographs
- Prior confirmation is needed if using a tripod
- Exercise caution regarding location data when posting to social media
Conclusion: The Quiet Charm of Futaiji Temple
Futaiji Temple in Nara City possesses a quiet and elegant charm in stark contrast to the magnificent splendor of major temples such as Tōdaiji and Kōfukuji. Its historical background as the temple founded by Ariwara no Narihira, a representative figure of the Heian period; its valuable cultural properties including the National Treasure Kannon Bodhisattva statue; and its beautiful grounds adorned by seasonal flowers—all these elements combine to move those who visit deeply.
When thinking of Nara sightseeing, attention naturally focuses on famous temples and shrines around Nara Park, but by venturing slightly to visit Futaiji Temple, you can experience a deeper and more multifaceted understanding of Nara’s history and culture. Particularly for those interested in Heian literature or Buddhist art, or those wishing to spend quiet, leisurely time in a temple setting, this is a place I can wholeheartedly recommend.
On your next visit to Nara, be sure to visit Futaiji Temple and experience the quiet beauty of this place that Ariwara no Narihira loved. You will surely discover a new facet of Nara.
