Higashiyama・Kodaiji Temple (Kyoto Prefecture) Complete Guide: The Charm of a Sacred Temple Where the Love of Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Nene Lives On
Kodaiji Temple, situated in Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto City, is a Rinzai Zen temple of the Kenninji school founded by Kitamandokoro Nene (Kodai-in), the principal wife of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, to pray for her husband’s eternal rest. Possessing numerous important cultural properties including architecture and gardens that exemplify the essence of Momoyama culture, as well as art and craft works represented by Kodaiji maki-e, it has become a representative tourist attraction of Kyoto, welcoming many visitors from both Japan and abroad. This article provides detailed and comprehensive guidance on everything from the history of Kodaiji to notable sites within the temple grounds and access information.
The History of Kodaiji: A Sacred Temple Born from the Deep Love of Kitamandokoro Nene
The Founding and Kitamandokoro Nene
The formal name of Kodaiji Temple is “Shubusanyama Kodaijushozenzenji,” and it was founded in 1606 (Keichō 11). After Toyotomi Hideyoshi passed away at Fushimi Castle in 1598 (Keichō 3), his principal wife Kitamandokoro Nene (1548-1624) established the temple to pray for the repose of her deceased husband.
After Hideyoshi’s death, Kitamandokoro took Buddhist vows under the name “Kodai-in Kogetsu-ni” and, with the support of Tokugawa Ieyasu, undertook the construction of Kodaiji Temple. The temple’s name “Kodaiji” derives from Nene’s posthumous Buddhist name “Kodai-in.” At the time of its founding, the temple grounds were extensive with numerous buildings, and including structures relocated from Fushimi Castle, it boasted a magnificent appearance.
The Founding Priest and Establishment of the Temple’s Status
The founding priest of Kodaiji was Sanko Shoeiki, a distinguished Rinzai Zen monk. Priest Sanko, who was the head priest of Kenninji Temple, received Kitamandokoro’s devotion and became the founding priest of Kodaiji. Through this, Kodaiji came to belong to the Kenninji school and established itself as a properly formatted Zen temple.
Tokugawa Ieyasu held Kitamandokoro in great respect and spared no effort in supporting the construction of Kodaiji Temple both materially and spiritually. Through Ieyasu’s donations, Kodaiji developed into a temple second only to the Five Great Zen Temples of Kyoto in prestige.
Repeated Fires and Reconstruction
The original Kodaiji Temple possessed many buildings including the abbot’s quarters and the Buddha hall, but over the course of its subsequent history, it was struck by fire many times. After Kitamandokoro passed away at age 77 in 1624 (Kanei 1), a major fire in 1789 (Kansei 1) destroyed the abbot’s quarters and Buddha hall, and the current temple grounds have shrunk to approximately one-tenth of their original size.
However, important buildings such as the founder’s hall, mausoleum, moon-viewing pavilion, umbrella tea house, and time-rain tea house survived the fires and continue to convey the atmosphere of the Momoyama period to the present day. These buildings are designated as national important cultural properties and have become precious cultural assets transmitting Kodaiji’s historical value to the present.
Temple Grounds Guide: Notable Sites and Important Cultural Properties
Within Kodaiji’s temple grounds, buildings and gardens exemplifying the essence of Momoyama culture are scattered throughout, each with profound history and aesthetic value. Here we introduce the main attractions in detail.
Hojo (Main Hall)
The current abbot’s quarters were rebuilt in the Meiji period and house the principal image of Shakyamuni Buddha. The interior features barrier paintings by the Kano school, inviting visitors into a tranquil space. From the abbot’s quarters, one can view the beautiful landscape of the garden and enjoy its appearance changing with the seasons.
Otamaya (Mausoleum) [Important Cultural Property]
The otamaya is a hall that enshrines wooden statues of Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Kitamandokoro Nene, built around 1605 (Keichō 10). The interior features extravagant and brilliant maki-e lacquer decoration called “Kodaiji maki-e” on the altar platform and shrine, demonstrating the pinnacle of craft techniques of the Momoyama period.
Kodaiji maki-e is created by depicting patterns of autumn grasses, paulownia, chrysanthemums, and other motifs in gold maki-e on a black lacquer ground. Its refinement and technical excellence had significant influence on maki-e of later generations as the “Kodaiji style.” Photography inside the mausoleum is prohibited, but its solemn atmosphere leaves a deep impression on visitors.
Kaisan-do (Founder’s Hall) [Important Cultural Property]
The founder’s hall enshrines a wooden statue of the founding priest Sanko Shoeiki and was built around 1605 (Keichō 10). The ceiling inside the hall is lined with pieces of fabric from traditional Chinese robes that Kitamandokoro loved to wear, revealing Nene’s thoughtful attention to detail.
In front of the founder’s hall are two ponds called “Garyu-chi” and “Engetsu-chi,” and the garden centered on these is designated as a national historic site and scenic beauty. The image of the founder’s hall reflected in the pond is breathtakingly beautiful, especially during the autumn leaf season.
Kangetsu-dai (Moon-Viewing Pavilion) [Important Cultural Property]
The moon-viewing pavilion is a roofed corridor connecting the founder’s hall and the mausoleum and is said to have been relocated from Fushimi Castle. A legend remains that Hideyoshi and Nene would gaze at the moon together here and converse, creating a romantic atmosphere.
The floor of the moon-viewing pavilion is “nightingale flooring,” which produces sound when walked upon. This is said to have been a device to detect intruders and allows a glimpse into the architectural techniques of the Momoyama period.
Kasa-tei and Shigure-tei (Tea Houses) [Important Cultural Properties]
Kasa-tei and Shigure-tei are tea room buildings conveying the design principles of Sen no Rikyu. The kasa-tei derives its name from its ceiling of bamboo arranged radially like an open umbrella, while shigure-tei features the rare structure of a two-story tea house.
These tea rooms were relocated from Fushimi Castle and express the aesthetic sensibility of Rikyu’s preferences—simple yet refined. The two tea houses are connected by a covered corridor, and as precious architectural works transmitting the tea culture of the Momoyama period to the present, they are visited by many tea ceremony enthusiasts.
Garden: A Scenic Beauty Created by Kobori Enshu
The garden of Kodaiji Temple is said to have been designed by Kobori Enshu, a celebrated garden designer of the early Edo period. The pond-stroll garden in front of the founder’s hall centers on the Garyu-chi and Engetsu-chi ponds, with rocks and plantings skillfully arranged to display beauty throughout the seasons.
Particularly impressive are the cherry blossoms in spring and the autumn leaves in fall, and the sight of autumn leaves reflected in the pond is called “reversed autumn leaves” and is popular with photography enthusiasts. The entire garden is designated as a national historic site and scenic beauty, and is highly regarded as a place where one can fully appreciate the beauty of Japanese gardens.
Bamboo Grove and Garyu-ro Corridor
A beautiful bamboo grove extends on the east side of the temple grounds, and the garyu-ro corridor passing through it is one of Kodaiji’s representative landscapes. The garyu-ro corridor is a stepped walkway extending from the founder’s hall to the mausoleum, named for its resemblance to a reclining dragon.
The garyu-ro corridor surrounded by bamboo features white mud walls on both sides of the stone steps, creating a picturesque scene characteristic of Kyoto. This bamboo path has become a popular photo spot on social media like Instagram.
Sho Art Museum
Within the temple grounds is the Sho Art Museum, which displays art and craft works transmitted to Kodaiji. Kodaiji maki-e furnishings, items associated with Kitamandokoro Nene, paintings and calligraphy, and other works are displayed with seasonal rotation, allowing visitors to directly experience the splendor of Momoyama culture.
Android Kannon “Minder”
In recent years, Kodaiji has undertaken an innovative effort fusing cutting-edge technology with Buddhism by publicly presenting an android Kannon called “Minder.” Created with the cooperation of Professor Hiroshi Ishiguro of Osaka University, this android takes the form of the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara and delivers dharma talks that explain the teachings of the Heart Sutra in contemporary language.
This fusion of tradition and innovation has received significant media attention both domestically and internationally and is garnering attention as a new method of transmitting Buddhist teachings to the modern world.
Kodaiji’s Annual Events and Illuminations
Spring Special Viewing and Cherry Blossom Illumination
Kodaiji hosts special viewings each spring with nighttime illumination. The weeping cherry blossoms and ornamental cherry trees on the temple grounds are illuminated, creating a dreamlike atmosphere. The weeping cherry in front of the abbot’s quarters is particularly stunning, attracting many tourists.
During the spring special viewing period, projection mapping and other cutting-edge techniques are employed, creating a unique world where traditional temple spaces merge with contemporary art.
Autumn Special Viewing and Autumn Leaf Illumination
Kodaiji in autumn is known as one of Kyoto’s premier autumn leaf viewing sites. Approximately 1,000 Japanese maples color the temple grounds, with the leaves reflected in Garyu-chi and Engetsu-chi ponds being particularly breathtaking. The nighttime illumination creates a dreamlike landscape with the leaves floating in darkness, presenting an entirely different appearance from the daytime.
As with spring, projection mapping is implemented during the autumn special viewing, and the collaboration between images projected on the abbot’s hall walls and the autumn leaves leaves a strong impression on visitors.
Hokusho Nene-sama Memorial Service
Each year in September, a memorial service is held on Kitamandokoro Nene’s death anniversary. During this service, Buddhist priests conduct sutra recitation and dharma talks in gratitude for and remembrance of Nene.
New Year’s Eve Bell Ringing
On New Year’s Eve, the temple bell is rung, and the general public can strike the bell on a first-come, first-served basis. The sound of the bell, striking 108 times to cleanse one of worldly desires, purifies the heart in the silence of welcoming the new year.
Branch Temple: Entokuji
As a branch temple of Kodaiji, there is Entokuji Temple. Entokuji is where Kitamandokoro Nene spent the last 19 years of her life and is located across the road from Kodaiji.
Entokuji possesses the north garden, which is said to have been relocated from the front garden of the cosmetics pavilion of Fushimi Castle and is designated as a national scenic beauty. The garden, combining dry landscape and pond-stroll elements, conveys the grand style of the Momoyama period to the present. It also houses fusuma paintings attributed to Hasegawa Tohaku, and many tourists visit both temples.
A joint admission ticket for Entokuji and Kodaiji is also available, and touring both temples allows for a deeper understanding of the life of Kitamandokoro Nene.
Details of Cultural Properties
Nationally Designated Important Cultural Properties (Structures)
- Founder’s Hall: Built around 1605 (Keichō 10)
- Mausoleum: Built around 1605 (Keichō 10), interior features Kodaiji maki-e
- Moon-Viewing Pavilion: Relocated from Fushimi Castle
- Umbrella Tea House: Tea room building reflecting Rikyu’s preferences
- Time-Rain Tea House: Two-story tea house building
- Front Gate: Yakui-mon style gate
- Mausoleum Interior Shrine: Craft work featuring Kodaiji maki-e
Nationally Designated Historic Site and Scenic Beauty
- Kodaiji Garden: Pond-stroll garden said to have been designed by Kobori Enshu
Other Cultural Properties
In addition to the above, Kodaiji holds numerous cultural properties including furnishings associated with Kitamandokoro Nene, paintings and calligraphy, and tea ceremony utensils. These are displayed at the Sho Art Museum and are also exhibited at special exhibitions.
Kodaiji National Forest and Surrounding Environment
Behind Kodaiji spreads the “Kodaiji Mountain National Forest.” This national forest is a precious green space near the heart of Kyoto and serves as an important element forming Kodaiji’s landscape. The changing nature of each season enriches the temple’s atmosphere and creates a tranquil space that makes one forget the bustle of the city.
Nearby Facilities and Tourist Attractions
Kodaiji is centrally located in Kyoto’s Higashiyama tourism area, with numerous attractions within walking distance.
Yasaka Shrine
Located about 10 minutes’ walk north of Kodaiji, Yasaka Shrine, affectionately known as “Gion-san,” is a representative Kyoto shrine. Famous for the Gion Festival, it is bustling with visitors year-round.
Kiyomizu Temple
Located about 15 minutes’ walk south of Kodaiji, Kiyomizu Temple is a representative Kyoto temple registered as a World Heritage site. The view from the main hall, known as the “Kiyomizu stage,” is spectacular and is a standard tourist destination.
Chionji Temple
Located about 12 minutes’ walk northeast of Kodaiji, Chionji is the head temple of the Pure Land school. Its massive gate and main hall are impressive.
Yasaka Pagoda (Hokanji Temple)
The five-story pagoda, located about 5 minutes’ walk south of Kodaiji, is cherished as a landmark of Higashiyama. The surrounding area continues with picturesque Kyoto townscapes and is ideal for strolling.
Nene’s Path
The approach to Kodaiji is called “Nene’s Path,” a beautiful stone-paved street. Lined with shops and cafes with a distinctly Kyoto atmosphere, it is pleasant for walking.
Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka Streets
Located along the way from Kodaiji to Kiyomizu Temple, these sloped streets preserve a Kyoto aesthetic. Souvenir shops and restaurants line the streets, bustling with tourists.
Location and Access Information
Location
Address: 526 Kodaiji Shimokawara-cho, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto 605-0825
Phone: 075-561-9966
Official Website: https://www.kodaiji.com/
Viewing Hours and Admission
Viewing Hours:
- Regular period: 9:00 AM–5:30 PM (Reception closes at 5:00 PM)
- Illumination period: 9:00 AM–10:00 PM (Reception closes at 9:30 PM)
Admission Fee:
- Adults: 600 yen
- Junior and senior high school students: 250 yen
- Elementary school and below: Free
- Joint admission ticket (Kodaiji and Entokuji): 900 yen
Access by Public Transportation
From Kyoto Station:
- Board the 206 route bus bound for “Gion/Kitaoji Bus Terminal” from platform D2
- Get off at “Higashiyama-Yasui” bus stop, approximately 7 minutes on foot
- Travel time: Approximately 30 minutes
From Shijo Kawaramachi:
- Board the 207 route bus bound for “Kiyomizu Temple/Tofukuji”
- Get off at “Higashiyama-Yasui” bus stop, approximately 7 minutes on foot
- Travel time: Approximately 15 minutes
Using Keihan Railway:
- Get off at “Gion-Shijo Station” on the main line, approximately 15 minutes on foot
- Or get off at “Kiyomizu-Gojo Station” on the main line, approximately 20 minutes on foot
Using Hankyu Railway:
- Get off at “Kawaramachi Station” on the Kyoto line, approximately 20 minutes on foot
- Bus usage is also possible from Kawaramachi Station
Access by Automobile and Parking
Kodaiji has its own parking lot.
Parking Information:
- Standard automobiles: Approximately 100 spaces (600 yen per hour)
- Buses: Advance reservation required (advance booking is essential)
- Address: 526 Kodaiji Shimokawara-cho, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto City
Important Notes:
- The parking lot becomes congested during peak tourism seasons (cherry blossoms and autumn leaves), so public transportation is recommended
- Surrounding roads also become congested, so allow extra time for travel
- Bus visits require advance reservation without exception
Taxi Usage
From Kyoto Station, a taxi ride takes approximately 15 minutes, with fares around 1,500–2,000 yen. It is convenient for groups or when carrying luggage.
Notes and Etiquette for Visiting
Photography
Photography is permitted in many areas of the temple grounds, but is prohibited in certain locations such as inside the mausoleum. Rules must be strictly observed where photography is forbidden. Care should also be taken not to disturb other visitors.
Dress Code
There are no strict dress code requirements, but in consideration of the temple being a sacred place, excessively revealing clothing should be avoided. Additionally, as the temple grounds have many stone pavements and stairs, comfortable walking shoes are recommended.
Peak Seasons
The cherry blossom season (late March to early April) and autumn leaf season (mid-November to early December) are particularly crowded. During illumination periods, the early evening onward is especially crowded, so early morning hours are recommended if you wish to view at a leisurely pace.
Barrier-Free Information
The temple grounds have many stairs and slopes, and wheelchair navigation is difficult in many areas. It is recommended to contact the temple in advance regarding barrier-free accommodations.
Recommended Restaurants and Cafes Around Kodaiji
The area surrounding Kodaiji has numerous restaurants and cafes where you can enjoy Kyoto’s distinctive atmosphere.
Kyoto Cuisine
Along Nene’s Path are traditional Kyoto restaurants serving elegant cuisine using seasonal ingredients. Lunch sets are offered at relatively affordable prices.
Dessert Shops
Various traditional sweet shops are scattered throughout the approach, offering Japanese sweets such as warabi mochi, adzuki bean jelly, and matcha parfaits. They are ideal for taking a break during your stroll.
Cafes
Cafes housed in converted traditional townhouses allow you to enjoy coffee and light meals in a Kyoto atmosphere. Some establishments have gardens where you can relax while viewing the landscape.
Tips for Maximizing the Appeal of Kodaiji
Timing of Your Visit
Shortly after opening in the morning (around 9:00 AM) the temple is relatively uncrowded, allowing for leisurely viewing in a tranquil atmosphere. Additionally, during illumination periods the temple presents an entirely different appearance from day and night, so visiting both times is recommended if you have the time.
Seasonal Highlights
- Spring (late March to early April): Weeping cherry blossoms are at their best. Night cherry blossom illumination is also beautiful
- Summer (June): Fresh greenery is beautiful. A relatively uncrowded hidden gem season
- Autumn (mid-November to early December): Autumn leaves are at their best. One of Kyoto’s premier autumn leaf viewing sites
- Winter (late December to February): Snowy scenery is beautiful. Few tourists, making it quiet
Combinations with Nearby Temples
Kodaiji is centrally located in Higashiyama sightseeing, making it efficient to combine it with itineraries including Kiyomizu Temple, Yasaka Shrine, and Chionji. Spending a full day touring the Higashiyama area allows for a deep experience of Kyoto’s history and culture.
Conclusion: Why Kodaiji Continues to Be Beloved
Kodaiji has maintained a history of over 400 years as a temple associated with Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Kitamandokoro Nene, important historical figures. Possessing numerous important cultural properties including architecture and gardens exemplifying the essence of Momoyama culture, and art and craft works represented by Kodaiji maki-e, it holds high value as a Japanese cultural heritage.
Additionally, the appeal is enhanced by the natural beauty of each season such as spring cherry blossoms and autumn leaves, as well as endeavors harmonizing tradition with innovation such as illumination incorporating cutting-edge techniques and the android Kannon. Combined with its convenient location at the center of Kyoto’s Higashiyama, it has become a popular destination attracting many tourists from both Japan and abroad.
Kodaiji, founded by Kitamandokoro Nene with deep love for her husband, carries her devotion in its temple grounds even today, touching the hearts of all who visit. When visiting Kyoto, be sure to stop at Kodaiji and experience its history and beauty. The time spent in the serene temple grounds will make you forget the bustle of daily life and bring profound peace to your heart.
