Nakagawa Onsen (Kanagawa Prefecture) Complete Guide｜Thoroughly Explained from History and Efficacy to Recommended Inns and Day-Tripping Bath Information
Nakagawa Onsen, located in Yamakita Town, Ashigara Kamigun, Kanagawa Prefecture, is a quiet hot spring resort situated deep in the Tanzawa Mountains along the Nakagawa River. Despite being just about 2 hours from central Tokyo, it is supported by many hot spring enthusiasts as a hidden gem surrounded by abundant nature. This article comprehensively explains everything you should know before visiting, from the history and water quality of Nakagawa Onsen to recommended accommodations, day-trip bathing information, access methods, and surrounding tourist attractions.
What is Nakagawa Onsen? Basic Information and Characteristics
Nakagawa Onsen is a hot spring resort located in the western part of Kanagawa Prefecture, within the Tanzawa-Oyama Quasi-National Park. Situated at an altitude of approximately 400 meters in a mountainous area, hot spring inns are scattered along the pristine waters of the Nakagawa River.
Location and Environment
Nakagawa Onsen is located in the Nakagawa district of Yamakita Town, Ashigara Kamigun, and is characterized by its natural environment surrounded by the mountains of Tanzawa. You can enjoy different scenery with the four seasons—new green in spring, cool mountain streams in summer, red leaves in autumn, and snowy landscapes in winter, presenting different faces depending on when you visit.
While maintaining the atmosphere of a quiet mountain village, it also has good access from tourist destinations like Odawara and Hakone, earning it the nickname “the hidden gem closest to central Tokyo.”
The Scale and Atmosphere of the Hot Spring Resort
Nakagawa Onsen is not a large hot spring town, but rather a peaceful hot spring resort where several hot spring inns quietly stand along the riverbank. There are no flashy tourist facilities or entertainment districts—it is a place designed to enjoy the hot spring itself and nature, allowing you to spend leisurely, unhurried time.
History and Origin of Nakagawa Onsen
Discovery and Opening of the Hot Spring
The history of Nakagawa Onsen is relatively recent, said to have been discovered by local people in the early Showa period. Initially, it was used only by locals, but as hot spring inns were subsequently established, it gradually became known.
Development as a Hot Spring Resort
After World War II, development progressed as a hot spring resort in Kanagawa Prefecture, and the number of hot spring inns increased from the 1960s through the 1970s. However, large-scale development was not undertaken, and the area developed while preserving its natural environment.
In recent years, it has been reevaluated as a “hidden gem” and “hideaway-style hot spring” away from urban hustle and bustle, drawing attention from hot spring enthusiasts and nature lovers.
Water Quality and Efficacy of Nakagawa Onsen
Characteristics of the Water Quality
The water quality of Nakagawa Onsen is primarily alkaline simple hot spring water. The source water temperature is around 25°C, which is relatively low, and most facilities provide it heated.
Main Water Quality Data:
- Water quality: Alkaline simple hot spring water
- pH value: Approximately 9.5 (strongly alkaline)
- Source water temperature: Approximately 25°C
- Discharge volume: Approximately 100 liters per minute (varies by facility)
Efficacy of the Hot Spring
Alkaline simple hot spring water is gentle on the skin and is also called “beautiful woman’s bath.” The main efficacies of Nakagawa Onsen are as follows:
General Applicable Conditions:
- Neuralgia
- Muscle pain
- Joint pain
- Frozen shoulder
- Motor paralysis
- Joint stiffness
- Bruises
- Sprains
- Chronic gastrointestinal disease
- Hemorrhoids
- Cold sensitivity
- Post-illness recovery period
- Fatigue recovery
- Health promotion
Beauty Skin Effects:
The strongly alkaline bathwater softens and removes old dead skin cells, and the skin becomes smooth after bathing, earning a good reputation. The water quality has a “slimy” characteristic, and you can feel the skin’s smoothness after bathing.
Precautions When Bathing
Due to the strong alkalinity, attention is needed to the following points:
- Avoid prolonged bathing; aim for about 10–15 minutes
- After bathing, it is recommended to rinse lightly with fresh water
- Those with sensitive skin should observe their skin’s condition while bathing
- For drinking the spring water, follow each facility’s instructions
Recommended Inns and Accommodations at Nakagawa Onsen
Nakagawa Onsen has various hot spring inns, each with its own characteristics. We introduce some major accommodations.
Shingen-kan (信玄館)
One of the representative long-established inns of Nakagawa Onsen. Named after the legendary daimyo Takeda Shingen, it has a setting that evokes history.
Characteristics:
- Open-air bath with source water flowing directly
- Quiet location along the stream
- Traditional Japanese multi-course cuisine using local ingredients
- Warm hospitality from family management
Recommended Points:
The open-air bath with the sound of the river babbling is exceptional. The cuisine featuring seasonal mountain delicacies is well-received, and the inn has many repeat customers.
Motoyu Aono Sanso (元湯 蒼の山荘)
An inn claiming to be “Motoyu” (original hot spring), closest to Nakagawa Onsen’s source.
Characteristics:
- Has its own private source
- Well-equipped private baths
- Modern Japanese architecture
- Quiet environment suitable for small group stays
Recommended Points:
With several private baths, it is popular with couples and families who value private time. The luxury of using fresh source water is its appeal.
Gyosan-tei (魚山亭)
An inn popular with outdoor enthusiasts that allows you to enjoy both mountain stream fishing and hot springs.
Characteristics:
- Mountain stream fishing available
- Caught fish can be prepared for meals
- Homey atmosphere
- Natural experience programs available
Recommended Points:
You can experience stream fishing in the Nakagawa River and taste the fish you caught at that evening’s dinner. Recommended for those seeking a sense of oneness with nature.
Points for Choosing an Inn
When choosing an inn at Nakagawa Onsen, consider the following points:
- Type of source: Private source or shared source
- Bath format: Availability of open-air baths, indoor baths, and private baths
- Meal content: Level of local ingredient utilization and cooking style
- Accessibility: Availability of shuttle service
- Inn size: Large inn or small accommodation
Day-Trip Bathing Information
At Nakagawa Onsen, you can enjoy bathing without staying overnight at certain facilities.
Buna no Yu (ぶなの湯, Nakagawa Onsen Public Bath)
A public bath used by locals where you can experience Nakagawa Onsen at reasonable prices.
Basic Information:
- Business hours: 10:00–20:00 (Final entry 19:30) *Hours vary by day of the week
- Closed: Tuesdays (if a holiday, closed the following day)
- Admission: Adults approximately 600 yen, children approximately 300 yen
- Facilities: Indoor bath, open-air bath, rest room
Characteristics:
A simple yet clean facility where you can enjoy source water flowing directly at an affordable cost. Interaction with local people is also part of its appeal.
Day-Trip Bathing at Inns
Some inns accept day-trip bathing with advance reservation.
Points of Note When Using:
- Always confirm and reserve by phone in advance
- Use times are limited as overnight guests have priority
- Fees typically range from 1,000–2,000 yen
- Bring your own towels or rent them for a fee
Etiquette for Day-Trip Bathing
- Be considerate of others during busy times
- Keep conversation at a low volume
- Manage your valuables yourself
- Don’t forget to hydrate before and after bathing
Access Methods to Nakagawa Onsen
Access to Nakagawa Onsen is most convenient by car, but it can also be reached by public transportation.
Access by Car
From the Tokyo area:
- Exit at “Oii-Matsuda IC” on the Tomei Expressway
- Head toward Gotemba on National Route 246
- Via Prefectural Route 76 for approximately 40 minutes
- Total travel time: Approximately 2 hours
Parking:
Each inn has its own dedicated parking. A free parking lot is also available at the public bath.
GPS Navigation:
Search for “Nakagawa, Yamakita Town, Ashigara Kamigun, Kanagawa Prefecture” or each facility’s phone number.
Access by Train and Bus
Nearest Stations:
JR Gotemba Line “Yagae Station” or “Yamakita Station”
Access Steps:
- From Shinjuku Station via Odakyu Line to Shin-Matsuda Station (approximately 1 hour)
- Transfer to JR Gotemba Line, exit at Yagae Station (approximately 20 minutes)
- From Yagae Station, take the Fuji Kyuko Shonan Bus heading to “Nakagawa Onsen” for approximately 20 minutes
- Total travel time: Approximately 2 hours 30 minutes
Bus Information:
- There are few bus runs, so check the timetable in advance
- Note the time of the last bus
- Bus schedules may differ on weekends and holidays
Shuttle Service
Many inns provide shuttle service from Yagae or Yamakita stations.
How to Use:
- Indicate your shuttle preference when making a reservation
- Contact the inn in advance with your arrival time
- Usually free, but confirmation is necessary
Tourist Spots Around Nakagawa Onsen
Around Nakagawa Onsen, there are scattered tourist spots where you can enjoy nature.
Tanzawa Lake
A man-made lake located about 15 minutes by car from Nakagawa Onsen.
How to Enjoy:
- Lakeside walks (circumferential road available)
- Canoe and kayak experiences
- Cycling
- Seasonal scenery (autumn foliage is particularly beautiful)
- Popular as a bass fishing spot
Highlights:
Eisai Bridge, Sanpo Dam, Chiyono-sawa Garden, and more
Nishi-Tanzawa Nature Center
A facility where you can learn about the nature of Tanzawa.
Features:
- Provision of mountaineering information
- Natural observation programs
- Exhibition corners
- Restrooms and rest facilities available
Use:
Can be used as a base for gathering information before climbing or for natural science learning.
Hinoki Boramaru (檜洞丸) Mountaineering
A famous peak in the Tanzawa Mountains with an elevation of 1,601 meters.
Mountaineering Information:
- Access to the trailhead possible from Nakagawa Onsen
- Time required: Round trip approximately 6–7 hours
- Difficulty level: Intermediate
- Best season: May–November
Cautions:
- Adequate equipment and preparation necessary
- Watch for sudden weather changes
- Don’t forget to submit your mountaineering notification
Shashui Falls (洒水の滝)
A famous waterfall selected as one of Japan’s Top 100 Waterfalls.
Access:
About 20 minutes by car from Nakagawa Onsen
Characteristics:
- A beautiful waterfall divided into three tiers
- Drop of approximately 69 meters
- Walking paths in surrounding area
- Particularly beautiful during fresh greenery and autumn foliage periods
Yamakita Railway Park
A spot recommended for railway enthusiasts.
Exhibits:
- Actual D52 steam locomotive on display
- Railway museum
- Mini SL operation (Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays)
Access:
About 3 minutes on foot from JR Yamakita Station
Model Courses for Enjoying Nakagawa Onsen
1-Night 2-Day Hot Spring Immersion Course
Day 1:
- 12:00 Depart from Tokyo (by car)
- 14:00 Arrive at Nakagawa Onsen, check in
- 15:00 Bathe in hot spring (1st time)
- 18:00 Dinner
- 20:00 Bathe in hot spring (2nd time)
- 21:00 Go to sleep
Day 2:
- 06:00 Early morning bath
- 08:00 Breakfast
- 10:00 Check out
- 10:30 Tanzawa Lake walk
- 12:00 Visit Shashui Falls
- 13:00 Lunch (local restaurant)
- 15:00 Begin return trip
Day-Trip Hot Spring and Hiking Course
Schedule:
- 08:00 Depart from Tokyo
- 10:00 Arrive at Nishi-Tanzawa Nature Center, gather information
- 10:30 Start light hiking
- 13:00 Finish hiking, lunch
- 14:30 Day-trip bathing at Buna no Yu
- 16:00 Begin return trip
1-Night 2-Day Family Course
Day 1:
- 11:00 Depart from Tokyo
- 13:00 Canoe experience at Tanzawa Lake
- 15:00 Arrive at Nakagawa Onsen, check in
- 15:30 Bathe in hot spring
- 18:00 Dinner
- 19:00 Firefly viewing (June–July)
Day 2:
- 07:00 Breakfast
- 09:00 Stream fishing experience
- 11:00 Check out
- 12:00 Visit Yamakita Railway Park
- 14:00 Begin return trip
Best Seasons for Nakagawa Onsen
Nakagawa Onsen can be enjoyed throughout all four seasons, but each has its own characteristics.
Spring (March–May)
Appeal:
- Beautiful fresh greenery
- Enjoy mountain vegetable cuisine
- Start of stream fishing season
- Comfortable climate
Caution:
Reservations should be made early as Golden Week is crowded
Summer (June–August)
Appeal:
- Cool mountain climate
- Firefly viewing (late June–early July)
- River play and stream fishing
- Ideal as a summer retreat
Caution:
- Rain gear essential during rainy season
- Crowded during summer vacation
Autumn (September–November)
Appeal:
- Spectacular autumn foliage (late October–mid-November)
- Mushroom dishes and autumn flavors
- Optimal climbing weather
- Hot springs are particularly pleasant
Recommendation:
The autumn foliage season is the best season for Nakagawa Onsen. The peak is particularly early November.
Winter (December–February)
Appeal:
- Quiet and peaceful atmosphere
- Enjoy viewing snow from the bath (when it snows)
- Hotpot cuisine and winter delicacies
- Clear air and beautiful starry sky
Caution:
- Possibility of slippery road surface (studded tires recommended)
- Early sunset
Ways to Spend Time and Enjoy Nakagawa Onsen
Hot Spring Indulgence
The simplest and most luxurious way to spend time.
Recommended Schedule:
- Bathe immediately after checking in
- Second bath before dinner
- Third bath after dinner with brief rest
- Morning bath the next day
Tip:
The hot spring shows different faces at different times of day. The morning bath is particularly exceptional with clear air.
Stream-Side Walk
Strolling along the walking path beside the Nakagawa River is also recommended.
Ways to Enjoy:
- Walk listening to the babbling of the river
- Bird watching
- Photography
- Forest bathing for refreshment
Time Required:
30 minutes–1 hour approximately
Enjoy Local Cuisine
Around Nakagawa Onsen, you can enjoy cuisine that takes advantage of local ingredients.
Specialty Dishes:
- Mountain vegetable cuisine (spring)
- River fish cuisine (char, sweetfish, etc.)
- Boar hotpot (winter season)
- Dishes using local vegetables
- Hand-made buckwheat noodles
Stargazing
A unique pleasure of a mountainous area with little light pollution.
Best Season:
Clear-air winter months or autumn
Viewing Spots:
The inn’s open-air bath or open areas along the river
Frequently Asked Questions About Nakagawa Onsen
Q1: Is Nakagawa Onsen co-educational bathing?
No, all Nakagawa Onsen facilities have separate bathing areas for men and women. Some inns have private baths where families and couples can bathe privately.
Q2: What are the hot spring’s business hours?
Hours vary by facility. For inns, it is generally around 6:00–23:00. For the public bath “Buna no Yu,” the standard is 10:00–20:00 (final entry 19:30).
Q3: Can I bathe if I have a tattoo (irezumi)?
Policies vary by facility. It is recommended to contact each facility in advance. Private baths are often available for those with tattoos.
Q4: Can I stay with a pet?
Some inns may allow pets, but many do not. If you wish to bring a pet, always confirm this when making your reservation.
Q5: Does it snow in winter?
At an elevation of about 400 meters, snowfall can occur. Particularly from January to February, there is a possibility of icy road surfaces, so if traveling by car, studded tires are recommended.
Q6: Can families with children enjoy it?
Yes, families can fully enjoy it. There are abundant activities that children will enjoy, such as river play and nature observation. However, care must be taken not to lose sight of small children due to the proximity of the stream.
Q7: Can I use Wi-Fi?
Many inns offer Wi-Fi, but being in a mountainous area, connection speeds may be slower than in urban areas. It is also good to visit intending to enjoy a digital detox.
Q8: Are there convenience stores or supermarkets nearby?
There are no convenience stores or supermarkets near Nakagawa Onsen. The nearest convenience store is in Yamakita Town and is about 20 minutes away by car. It is recommended to prepare necessary items in advance.
Packing List for Visiting Nakagawa Onsen
Essential Items
- Change of clothes
- Towels (some facilities offer rental)
- Toiletries (toothbrush, cosmetics, etc.)
- Medications
- Health insurance card
- Cash (some facilities do not accept credit cards)
Convenient to Have
- Warm clothing (depending on season)
- Rain gear
- Flashlight (for evening walks)
- Camera
- Binoculars (for bird watching)
- Insect repellent spray (summer)
- Sunscreen
- Water bottle
For Outdoor Enthusiasts
- Trekking shoes
- Backpack
- Map and compass
- Rain wear
- Trail snacks
Summary of Nakagawa Onsen’s Appeal
Nakagawa Onsen, accessible in about 2 hours from central Tokyo, is a hidden gem with many attractions.
Main Appeals:
- Highly Effective Alkaline Hot Spring for Skin Beauty: Known as “beautiful woman’s bath” with strongly alkaline water quality
- Rich Natural Environment: A healing space surrounded by Tanzawa Mountains and clear streams
- Quiet and Peaceful Atmosphere: Leisurely time unlike large tourist destinations
- Seasonal Delights: Fresh greenery, fireflies, autumn foliage, and snow viewing—all seasonal attractions
- Cuisine Using Local Ingredients: Enjoy mountain and river delicacies
- Convenient Access: Close enough for day trips from central Tokyo
- Abundant Activities: Mountain climbing, hiking, stream fishing, and more
Conclusion
Nakagawa Onsen, though not flashy, is a hot spring resort where you can fully experience the original appeal of hot springs and the beauty of nature. To leave daily hustle and bustle behind, slowly soak in the hot spring, and take a deep breath in nature. This is the kind of simple luxury we wish to offer to those seeking it.
Nakagawa Onsen, while close to the city, maintains the atmosphere of a hidden gem and is the place we especially recommend visiting. It can be utilized in various contexts—as a weekend getaway destination or as a hideaway during long holidays. Please visit Nakagawa Onsen multiple times throughout the seasons and discover its diverse appeal.
The world of Nakagawa Onsen, woven from hot springs, nature, and the warmth of local people, will surely refresh your body and mind and provide you with vitality for tomorrow.
