Mount Hiei (Shiga Prefecture)

Mount Hiei (Shiga Prefecture)
住所 〒520-0116 滋賀県大津市坂本本町4220
公式 URL https://www.hieizan.or.jp/
Typical peak season 10月下旬〜11月中旬

Mount Hiei (Shiga Prefecture) Complete Guide: History, Tourist Attractions, and Access Methods Fully Explained

Mount Hiei is a sacred peak with an elevation of 848 meters spanning Otsu City in Shiga Prefecture and Kyoto City in Kyoto Prefecture. Long known as the “Mother Mountain of Japanese Buddhism,” it is centered on Enryaku-ji Temple, which is registered as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. It serves as a representative sacred site of Japan where rich nature and historical culture harmonize, attracting numerous pilgrims and tourists from both domestically and internationally.

This article provides a thorough explanation of everything you should know when visiting Mount Hiei, from its historical background to tourist attractions, seasonal highlights, access methods, and surrounding information.

Mount Hiei: The Sacred Site of Japanese Buddhism

Geography and Characteristics of Mount Hiei

Mount Hiei is located to the southwest of Lake Biwa and spans a mountainous region on the border between Shiga and Kyoto Prefectures. The highest peak is Dai-Hiei at 848 meters, with Shimeigadake continuing to its south. In ancient times, it was called “Hie Mountain” and was the object of mountain worship.

Since the entire mountain has been protected as a religious sacred area, pristine forest-like rich nature has been preserved, with deciduous broadleaf forests of beech and Mongolian oak spreading across the mountain. This natural environment forms a rare ecosystem that is uncommon in urban areas.

History of Enryaku-ji Temple on Mount Hiei

The center of Mount Hiei is Enryaku-ji Temple, the headquarters of the Tendai sect of Buddhism. It began in the year 788 (Enryaku 7), when the young Saicho founded the Ichijou Shikan-in (now the Konpon Chudo Hall).

Saicho studied Tendai teachings in Tang (China) and, after returning to Japan, founded the Japanese Tendai sect. Throughout the Heian period, Enryaku-ji received imperial patronage and developed as a central figure in Japanese Buddhism.

Many renowned monks representing Kamakura Buddhism were produced from Mount Hiei, including Honen (founder of the Pure Land sect), Shinran (founder of True Pure Land Buddhism), Eisai (founder of Rinzai Zen), Dogen (founder of Soto Zen), and Nichiren (founder of Nichiren Buddhism). For this reason, Mount Hiei is called the “Mother Mountain of Japanese Buddhism.”

Value as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site

Enryaku-ji Temple was registered as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site in 1994 as part of “Cultural Properties of the Ancient Capital of Kyoto.” Its over 1,200 years of religious activity history, the cultural value of its buildings, and the role it played in the development of Japanese Buddhism were highly valued.

The Three Pagodas and Sixteen Valleys of Enryaku-ji: Introduction to Main Areas

Enryaku-ji Temple is a collective term for approximately 150 pagodas and halls scattered throughout the vast Mount Hiei, and is divided into three main areas (Three Pagodas): “Todai (Eastern Pagoda),” “Saito (Western Pagoda),” and “Yokawa.”

Todai (Eastern Pagoda) Area

Todai is the birthplace of Enryaku-ji and the central area.

Konpon Chudo Hall

The Konpon Chudo Hall, the main hall of Enryaku-ji, is a magnificent building designated as a National Treasure. The “Eternal Dharma Lamp” lit by Saicho has been burning continuously for over 1,200 years, becoming a symbol of Enryaku-ji.

The current building was rebuilt in 1642 (Kannei 19) by order of Tokugawa Iemitsu, featuring a large irimoya (hip and gable) roof design with 11 bays wide and 6 bays deep. The inner sanctuary is 3 meters lower than the outer sanctuary in a unique “dragon palace style” architecture, allowing worshippers to look up at the Buddha statues while paying respects.

The “Heisei Great Renovation” has been underway since 2016, with completion targeted for 2026. Visits are possible during construction, offering a precious opportunity to view usually unseen architectural details.

Great Lecture Hall

The Great Lecture Hall, designated as an Important Cultural Property, is the central facility for learning and practice at Enryaku-ji. Inside the hall, in addition to the principal image of Dainichi Nyorai, portraits of successive Tendai sect leaders are displayed.

Amida Hall

Built in a quiet corner of the Todai area, the Amida Hall is used as a place for reciting Buddha’s name at Mount Hiei. Inside the hall is enshrined a life-sized Amida Buddha statue.

Kaidan-in

This is an important facility where monks formally receive the precepts to become ordained monks. Saicho hoped for the establishment of a uniquely Japanese Mahayana ordination platform, and seven days after his death, imperial permission was granted.

Saito (Western Pagoda) Area

Located about 1 kilometer north of Todai, approximately 20 minutes on foot, the Saito area is a place of practice enveloped in silence.

Shaka Hall (Tenhorin Hall)

The Shaka Hall, which serves as the main hall of Saito, is the oldest existing building at Enryaku-ji and is designated as an Important Cultural Property. Originally the golden hall of Mii-dera Temple, it was relocated by order of Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

Ninaido Hall

This building has a unique structure where two halls—the Jougyo-do and the Hokke-do—are connected by a corridor. It is called “Ninaido” because its shape resembles a person carrying loads on a carrying pole. It is designated as an Important Cultural Property.

Jodo-in

This is the mausoleum of Saicho and is considered the most sacred place at Enryaku-ji. Even today, monks practicing the rigorous “twelve-year mountain seclusion” continue to attend to Saicho daily, as if serving him.

Yokawa Area

Located about 4 kilometers further north from Saito, the Yokawa area is positioned at the northernmost part of Mount Hiei. Opened by the Great Master Jikaku Ennin, it is a place of practice surrounded by silence and nature.

Yokawa Chudo Hall

The main hall at the center of the Yokawa area is characterized by its unique stage-style architecture. The principal image is the Sacred Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva, and it is used as a practice hall based on the “Surangama Samadhi Sutra.”

The current building was reconstructed in 1971, and its red-lacquered exterior is striking.

Ganzandaishi Hall (Shiki-ko Hall)

This is a hall dedicated to Ryogen (Ganzandaishi), known as the founder of fortune-telling slips. The site where “Ganzandaishi Omikuji” was born, which became the prototype of modern fortune-telling slips, is said to be here, and many worshippers visit.

Eshin-do

This is the place where Eshin Sozu Genshin, author of the “Essentials of Birth into Pure Land,” conducted nembutsu practice. It is known as a sacred site that had a major influence on the development of Japanese Pure Land Buddhism.

Mount Hiei Through the Seasons: Seasonal Highlights

Spring: Cherry Blossoms and Fresh Greenery

From April to May, Mount Hiei is colored with cherry blossoms and fresh greenery. Wild mountain cherries bloom magnificently, while the beautiful young leaves of vibrant green envelop the entire mountain. This season has mild temperatures, making it ideal for visiting and sightseeing.

At the Enryaku-ji grounds, the contrast between cherry blossoms and historic buildings is beautiful and popular as a photography spot.

Summer: Natural Air Conditioning and Green Maple Leaves

Due to its high elevation, Mount Hiei is 5 to 10 degrees cooler than urban areas even in summer, and is enjoyed as a natural air-conditioned retreat. The verdant maple leaves and deep green forests create a cool atmosphere.

From July to August, it is recommended to participate in the early morning “morning services.” The chanting performed in the clear morning air provides a valuable experience for purifying the mind.

Autumn: A Renowned Viewing Spot for Autumn Leaves

Mount Hiei’s autumn foliage is known for being among the most beautiful in the Kansai region. It typically reaches its peak from late October to mid-November, with the entire mountain turning shades of red and yellow.

The area around Ninaido in the Saito area and around Yokawa Chudo in the Yokawa area are particularly known as viewing spots for autumn leaves. The views from the Hiei Mountain Drive Way and the Oku-Hiei Drive Way are also spectacular, with the contrast between Lake Biwa and autumn foliage creating a breathtaking landscape.

During the autumn foliage season, many tourists visit, so visiting early in the morning or on weekdays is recommended.

Winter: Snowy Landscape and Silence

In winter, Mount Hiei is covered in snow and enveloped in a solemn, mysterious atmosphere. With fewer visitors, it is a season when one can visit at leisure in silence.

The beauty of the snow-covered Konpon Chudo Hall and the snow-laden forest is exceptional. However, it is necessary to check traffic information in advance, as roads may be closed due to heavy snow and icy road surfaces.

Access Methods to Mount Hiei

You can access Mount Hiei from both Shiga Prefecture and Kyoto Prefecture sides. Detailed instructions for each method are provided below.

Access from Shiga Prefecture Side

Sakamoto Cable Car

From Keihan Railway’s “Sakamoto-Hieizan-guchi Station” approximately 10 minutes on foot, or from JR Lake West Line’s “Hieizan Sakamoto Station” approximately 20 minutes on foot (or by bus), you will reach the “Sakamoto Cable Station.”

From Sakamoto Cable Station to “Enryaku-ji Cable Station” takes about 11 minutes via Japan’s longest cable car (total length 2,025 meters) up the mountain. The cable car windows provide views of Lake Biwa’s grand scenery.

From Enryaku-ji Cable Station, it is approximately 10 minutes on foot to the Todai area.

Hiei Mountain Drive Way

When accessing from the Shiga side by car, use the Hiei Mountain Drive Way. From the Tanodani Pass toll gate to Enryaku-ji is approximately 8 kilometers and about 20 minutes of driving.

There are several viewpoints along the way where you can enjoy spectacular views of Lake Biwa and the Hira Mountain Range.

Access from Kyoto Prefecture Side

Eizan Cable and Ropeway

From Eizan Railway’s “Yase-Hieizan-guchi Station,” a short walk to “Yase Cable Station,” then take the cable car to “Hieidono Cable Station” (about 9 minutes). Transfer to the ropeway to “Hieidono Ropeway Station” (about 3 minutes).

From Hieidono Ropeway Station, take a shuttle bus or walk (about 30 minutes) to reach the Enryaku-ji Eastern Pagoda area.

Oku-Hiei Drive Way

When accessing by car from the Kyoto side, use the Oku-Hiei Drive Way. From Giboushi toll gate to Enryaku-ji is approximately 11 kilometers and about 25 minutes.

Direct Buses from Kyoto and Otsu Stations

During tourist season, direct buses to Enryaku-ji are sometimes operated from JR Kyoto and JR Otsu Stations. It is recommended to check the operating schedule in advance.

Admission Information and Time Required

Admission Fees

A combined ticket is required to visit Enryaku-ji (as of 2024):

  • Eastern Pagoda, Western Pagoda, and Yokawa Combined Ticket: 1,000 yen for adults, 600 yen for high school and middle school students, 300 yen for elementary school students
  • National Treasure Hall (Treasure Museum): 500 yen for adults, 300 yen for high school and middle school students, 100 yen for elementary school students

Visiting Hours

  • Eastern Pagoda Area: 8:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m. (December 9:00 a.m.–4:00 p.m., January–February 9:00 a.m.–4:30 p.m.)
  • Western Pagoda and Yokawa Areas: 9:00 a.m.–4:00 p.m. (December 9:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m., January–February 9:30 a.m.–4:00 p.m.)

※Hours may change depending on season and weather conditions.

Estimated Time Required

  • Eastern Pagoda Area only: 1 to 1.5 hours
  • Eastern Pagoda + Western Pagoda Areas: 2 to 3 hours
  • All three areas (Eastern Pagoda + Western Pagoda + Yokawa): 4 to 5 hours

Each area can be reached on foot, but a shuttle bus is more convenient.

Experience Programs at Mount Hiei

Zazen and Sutra Copying

Enryaku-ji offers zazen and sutra copying experience programs that are open to the general public. These provide a valuable opportunity to step away from daily life and calm the mind.

Advance reservation is often required, so it is recommended to check the official website before visiting.

Training Experience (One Night, Two Days)

Enryaku-ji also offers a “one night, two days training experience” program. You can experience the life of monks through early morning services, zazen, sutra copying, and vegetarian cuisine.

This program is highly appreciated by many participants as an opportunity to step away from daily life and face yourself. It is especially recommended for those who wish to refresh their mind and body or who want time for meditation and introspection.

Hiei Mountain International Trail Running

Each spring, the “Hiei Mountain International Trail Running” is held, attracting runners from both domestic and international locations. This popular event allows participants to run while experiencing the nature and history of Mount Hiei.

Nearby Tourist Attractions

Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine

Located at the base of Mount Hiei in the Sakamoto district, Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine is the head shrine of over 3,800 Hiyoshi, Hie, and Sanno shrines throughout the country. It has long been worshipped as the tutelary deity of Mount Hiei.

The grounds contain numerous buildings designated as National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties, including the National Treasure East Main Hall and West Main Hall. The autumn foliage is particularly beautiful, and it is also known as a “famous spot for maple viewing.”

Sakamoto Town

The Sakamoto district, which prospered as a temple town for Enryaku-ji, contains many sato-bo (monks’ retirement residences) of Enryaku-ji. The quiet town lined with stone walls and greenery is designated as an “Important Traditional Building Preservation District” and is perfect for strolling.

Lake Biwa

Lake Biwa, which spreads below Mount Hiei, is Japan’s largest lake. The lake shore has diverse tourist spots including “Biwako Valley,” “Lake Biwa Museum,” and “Hikone Castle.”

It is recommended to enjoy sightseeing around Lake Biwa in combination with Mount Hiei tourism.

Sample Courses for Mount Hiei Tourism

Half-Day Course (Morning)

9:00 a.m. Ascend via Sakamoto Cable
9:15 a.m. Arrive at Eastern Pagoda Area, visit Konpon Chudo Hall
10:00 a.m. View Great Lecture Hall and Amida Hall
10:30 a.m. View National Treasure Hall (Treasure Museum)
11:30 a.m. Descend via Sakamoto Cable
12:00 p.m. Stroll through Sakamoto town, have lunch

Full-Day Course

9:00 a.m. Ascend via Sakamoto Cable
9:15 a.m. Visit Eastern Pagoda Area (Konpon Chudo, Great Lecture Hall, etc.)
10:30 a.m. Take shuttle bus to Western Pagoda Area
11:00 a.m. Visit Western Pagoda Area (Shaka Hall, Ninaido, etc.)
12:00 p.m. Lunch (Minedo Restaurant, etc.)
1:00 p.m. Take shuttle bus to Yokawa Area
1:30 p.m. Visit Yokawa Area (Yokawa Chudo, Ganzandaishi Hall, etc.)
3:00 p.m. Begin descent
4:00 p.m. Visit Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine
5:00 p.m. Stroll through Sakamoto town

Kyoto and Mount Hiei Tour Course

10:00 a.m. Depart from Kyoto Station
10:40 a.m. Eizan Railway Yase-Hieizan-guchi Station
11:00 a.m. Ascend via cable and ropeway
11:30 a.m. Visit Enryaku-ji Eastern Pagoda Area
1:00 p.m. Lunch
2:00 p.m. Visit Western Pagoda Area
3:30 p.m. Descend via Sakamoto Cable
4:30 p.m. Visit Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine
5:30 p.m. Depart from Sakamoto Station to Kyoto

Notes and Advice for Mount Hiei Tourism

Clothing and Belongings

  • Comfortable walking shoes: As the grounds are extensive with many stone steps, sneakers or other easy-to-walk-in shoes are essential.
  • Season-appropriate clothing: As the temperature on the mountain is lower than at lower elevations, bring a jacket in spring and autumn, and something to wear over your clothes even in summer.
  • Rain gear: Since weather changes easily, having a folding umbrella or raincoat is reassuring.

Photography

Photography is basically permitted in the grounds, but it is prohibited inside some halls. Confirm before photographing. Also, it is necessary to avoid disturbing worshippers and practicing monks.

Dining

Several facilities where meals can be obtained are available in the Enryaku-ji grounds, including “Minedo Restaurant” and “Tsuruki Soba.” You can enjoy vegetarian cuisine and Mount Hiei soba unique to the mountain.

However, business hours and days of closure may change, so it is recommended to confirm in advance.

Winter Precautions

In winter (December–March), cable cars and drive ways may be closed or access restricted due to heavy snow and icy roads. Always check operating conditions before visiting.

Lodging Temple Experience at Mount Hiei

Enryaku-ji has a temple lodging “Enryaku-ji Kaikan” where the general public can stay. It provides a valuable opportunity to deeply experience the silence and spirituality of Mount Hiei, such as enjoying vegetarian cuisine and participating in early morning services.

By staying at the temple, you can enjoy the sunrise, sunset, and starry sky at Mount Hiei that cannot be experienced on a day trip. It is particularly recommended for those wishing to refresh body and mind or those who want time for meditation and introspection.

Cultural Properties and Buddha Statues of Mount Hiei

Enryaku-ji preserves many cultural properties designated as National Treasures or Important Cultural Properties.

Major National Treasures

  • Konpon Chudo Hall (architecture)
  • Silk Portrait of Tendai Daishi (painting)
  • Dengyō Daishi Shorai Mokuroku (calligraphy)

Many of these precious cultural properties are displayed in the National Treasure Hall (Treasure Museum).

Important Buddha Statues

  • Yakushi Nyorai statue (principal image of Konpon Chudo Hall): Said to be carved by Saicho himself, normally not open to the public
  • Shaka Nyorai statue (principal image of Shaka Hall)
  • Sacred Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva statue (principal image of Yokawa Chudo Hall)
  • Ganzandaishi statue (Ganzandaishi Hall)

Mount Hiei and Japanese History

Oda Nobunaga’s Burning of Mount Hiei

In 1571 (Genki 2), Oda Nobunaga burned down Mount Hiei in retaliation for Enryaku-ji’s support of the Asai and Asakura clans.

Enryaku-ji received devastating damage from this incident, but later recovered with the support of Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Tokugawa Ieyasu.

Meiji Restoration and the Anti-Buddhist Movement

During the anti-Buddhist movement in the early Meiji period, many temples were destroyed, but Enryaku-ji suffered relatively minor damage. This was because the historical importance of Enryaku-ji was recognized.

Books and Materials for Learning More About Mount Hiei

For those wishing to learn more about Mount Hiei and Enryaku-ji, the following resources are recommended:

  • “Buddhist Art of Mount Hiei and Tendai” (Exhibition Catalogue)
  • “Mount Hiei, Mother Mountain of Japanese Buddhism”
  • “Saicho and the Tendai Community”
  • “History and Culture of Mount Hiei”

The official Enryaku-ji website also provides detailed information on history, cultural properties, and events.

Conclusion: Fully Enjoying the Attractions of Mount Hiei

Mount Hiei is a sacred site of Japanese Buddhism with over 1,200 years of history and a special place blessed with abundant nature and cultural properties. It offers diverse attractions including the solemn pagodas and halls of Enryaku-ji, which is registered as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site, the beautiful natural scenery of all four seasons, and stunning views overlooking Lake Biwa.

While it can be fully enjoyed on a day trip, if time permits, staying at a temple lodging to participate in early morning services or slowly visiting all three pagoda areas allows for a deeper spiritual experience of Mount Hiei.

Mount Hiei, easily accessible from Kyoto, Osaka, and Nagoya, is a precious tourist destination where you can experience Japanese history and culture firsthand. In search of peace of mind and the weight of history, please visit Mount Hiei.

Whether you choose the Sakamoto Cable route from the Shiga side or the Eizan Cable and Ropeway route from the Kyoto side, different scenery and experiences await you on each route. Fully enjoy the attractions of Mount Hiei in a manner suited to your travel style.

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Nearby Autumn Foliage Spots