Keisokuji (Former Hanpukuji) Complete Guide | History, Highlights, and Access Information for One of Shiga Prefecture’s Premier Autumn Foliage Destinations
Keisokuji (鶏足寺), officially known as the former Hanpukuji (旧飯福寺), is an ancient temple located in Kinomoto Town, Nagahama City, Shiga Prefecture. Although it is now an abandoned temple, in autumn approximately 200 Japanese maple trees fill the grounds, making it one of Shiga Prefecture’s most celebrated autumn foliage destinations that captivates countless tourists. This article provides detailed information about Keisokuji’s history, highlights, access methods, and visitation information that you should know before your visit.
What is Keisokuji (Former Hanpukuji)?
Keisokuji (Former Hanpukuji) is a Tendai Buddhist temple that was founded during the Nara period. It flourished as one of the branch temples of Kodakamiyama Keisokuji, but became an abandoned temple following the Meiji period’s anti-Buddhist movement. Currently managed by local residents, it has become a popular tourist destination, particularly during autumn foliage season when many visitors come to pay their respects.
Official Name and Nomenclature
While “Former Hanpukuji” is the official name at the site, it is widely known as “Keisokuji” in general. This name derives from its history as a branch temple of Kodakamiyama Keisokuji. Tourist guides and maps often list both names, and the notation “Keisokuji (Former Hanpukuji)” has become standard.
History of Keisokuji
Foundation in the Nara Period
Keisokuji’s history dates back to 735 (Tenpyo 7). It is said to have been founded by Gyoki, a renowned Buddhist monk of the Nara period. Gyoki was known for building temples throughout the country and dedicating himself to the salvation of the people, and Keisokuji was one of such temples he established.
Revival by Saicho
After its initial founding, Keisokuji fell into disrepair but was revived in 799 (Enryaku 18) by Saicho, the founder of the Tendai sect. Saicho was the person who established Enryakuji on Mount Hiei and reorganized Keisokuji as a Tendai Buddhist temple. Through this revival, Keisokuji came to occupy an important position as a sacred site of mountain Buddhism on Mount Kodakamiyama.
Prosperity in the Medieval Period
In medieval times, Keisokuji flourished greatly as a branch temple of Kodakamiyama Keisokuji. According to the Kohokuji Official Monastic Documents (1441), Mount Kodakamiyama had five temples: Hokkeji, Ishidoji, Kannon-ji, Takaoji, and Anrakuji, and as branch temples of Kannon-ji, there were Keisokuji, Hanpukuji, and Enmanji.
Medieval Keisokuji was a great temple that maintained warrior monks and wielded considerable power. During the Sengoku period, it became the prayer temple of Asai family, lords of Odani Castle, and later received patronage from the Toyotomi family, maintaining stable temple operations while preserving relationships with the powers of the time.
From the Edo Period to the Meiji Period
During the Edo period, Keisokuji maintained a certain level of influence, but gradually declined with the end of the Edo shogunate. Affected by the Meiji period’s movement to abolish Buddhism and destroy Buddhist temples, it eventually became an abandoned temple.
Keisokuji Today
After becoming an abandoned temple, the principal image and important cultural properties were moved to nearby Kohokukaku and Yoishirokaku, where they are carefully preserved. The temple grounds are managed by local residents, and special care is taken to maintain the beautiful scenery, particularly during autumn foliage season. Today, while retaining traces of this historically significant ancient temple, it is loved by many people as one of Shiga Prefecture’s representative autumn foliage destinations.
Highlights of Keisokuji
Spectacular Autumn Foliage
The greatest highlight of Keisokuji is undoubtedly the autumn foliage. The grounds contain approximately 200 ancient Japanese maple trees, reaching their peak from mid-November through early December. The scattered crimson leaves covering the stone steps of the approach path are called a “red carpet” and captivate all who visit.
During autumn foliage season, you can enjoy different aspects of the leaves at different times: illuminated by morning sunlight, vivid crimson in daylight, and deep hues at dusk. The foliage viewed in the peaceful early morning atmosphere is particularly exceptional.
Historic Approach Path and Stone Steps
The approach path to Keisokuji features a gentle flight of stone steps. These steps have become covered with moss through long history and, along with the stone walls on both sides, preserve the appearance of the past. Even outside of foliage season, the historical atmosphere created by these steps and walls is worth experiencing.
Walking the path while imagining the temple’s days as a great monastery allows you to sense the romance of history. Each stone step and the moss-covered walls are precious legacies that have survived centuries to reach the present day.
Atmosphere of the Grounds
While Keisokuji is now an abandoned temple and few buildings remain, the appearance of the grounds is sufficient to evoke the past. The spacious grounds contain areas that suggest the original temple layout, creating a quiet and sacred atmosphere.
Nearby Cultural Heritage Facilities
The principal image and important cultural properties of Keisokuji are housed in nearby Kohokukaku (己高閣) and Yoishirokaku (世代閣). Kohokukaku contains designated Important Cultural Properties including an Eleven-Faced Kannon Bodhisattva statue, and visitors should definitely view this facility when visiting Keisokuji.
At Kohokukaku and Yoishirokaku, you can view up close numerous cultural treasures that tell the history of Mount Kodakamiyama’s mountain Buddhism and gain a deeper understanding of Keisokuji’s history.
Special Information for Autumn Foliage Season
Peak Viewing Period
Keisokuji’s autumn foliage typically peaks from mid-November through early December. In 2024, the peak viewing period was around November 23 to December 5. However, the peak period may shift depending on weather conditions, so it is recommended to confirm the latest information before your visit.
Crowd Conditions During Foliage Season
During peak foliage period, particularly on weekends and holidays, the site becomes very crowded. Parking lots often reach capacity early, so use of public transportation or an early morning visit is recommended. On weekdays, you can enjoy the foliage in relatively relaxed conditions.
Autumn Foliage Cooperation Fee
During foliage season, a cooperation fee (approximately 200 yen) is requested from visitors for grounds maintenance. This fee supports cleaning and maintenance activities by local residents and is an important funding source for preserving the beautiful landscape.
Temporary Parking
Temporary parking is provided during foliage season. Parking is fee-based, but clear directions to the grounds are provided. However, walking is required from the parking lot to the grounds, and there are stone steps on the approach path, so comfortable walking shoes are recommended.
Access Information
Access by Train and Bus
Nearest Station: JR Hokuriku Main Line “Kinomoto Station”
From Kinomoto Station, take the Kokuji Bus and get off at “Furuhashi” bus stop. It is approximately 15-25 minutes on foot from the bus stop to Keisokuji. Bus service is limited, so it is recommended to check the schedule in advance.
During foliage season, temporary buses may operate from Kinomoto Station toward Keisokuji, so check the tourism association’s website for the latest information.
Access by Car
Nearest IC: Hokuriku Expressway “Kinomoto IC”
It takes approximately 10 minutes from Kinomoto IC. Proceed via National Route 365 and follow the directional signs. Outside foliage season, parking space is limited, so advance confirmation is necessary.
Address
〒529-0411 Shiga Prefecture, Nagahama City, Kinomoto Town, Furuhashi
Caution When Setting Navigation
When setting your destination on car navigation, search for “Keisokuji” or “Former Hanpukuji.” In some cases, setting “Kohokukaku” as your destination may be clearer. During foliage season, temporary parking locations may change, so follow on-site guidance.
Visitation Information
Visiting Hours
As an abandoned temple, Keisokuji has no set visiting hours, but during foliage season there are cooperation fee reception hours (approximately 9:00-16:00). Early morning or evening visits are possible, but for safety reasons, daytime visits are recommended.
Admission Fee
Free during normal periods, but a cooperation fee of approximately 200 yen is requested during foliage season.
Visitation Information for Kohokukaku and Yoishirokaku
Operating Hours: 9:00-16:00 (Last admission 15:30)
Closed: Mondays (if a holiday, the following day), year-end and new year holidays
Admission Fee: Adults 300 yen, Elementary and junior high students 100 yen
Inquiries
Kinomoto Branch Office, Nagahama City Hall
Phone: 0749-53-2650
Nagahama and Maibara Tourism Information Site (North Lake Biwa)
Check the website for the latest information.
Nearby Tourist Attractions
Ishidoji
Another ancient temple on Mount Kodakamiyama, housing Important Cultural Property Eleven-Faced Kannon statues and others. Located about 5 minutes by car from Keisokuji, it is worth visiting together.
Kohokukaku and Yoishirokaku
As mentioned previously, the facility houses Keisokuji’s principal image and cultural properties. This is a must-see when visiting Keisokuji.
Odani Castle Ruins
The ruins of the castle of Sengoku daimyo Asai Nagamasa, designated as a national historical site. The historical connection that Keisokuji was the prayer temple of the Asai family is also notable, making it recommended for history enthusiasts.
Shigaraki
A mountain known as the site of the Battle of Shigaraki between Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Shiba Katsuie, offering a magnificent view of Lake Biwa from the summit.
Yogo Lake
Also called the “Mirror Lake,” this beautiful lake is characterized by its scenic reflections on its calm surface. It is approximately 15 minutes by car from Keisokuji.
Precautions and Etiquette When Visiting
Clothing and Items to Bring
The approach path has stone steps and becomes slippery with fallen leaves during foliage season. Wear comfortable walking shoes, preferably with non-slip soles. Depending on weather, it may be cool, so bringing a jacket is recommended.
Photography Etiquette
Keisokuji is a popular photography spot, but consideration must be given to other visitors. Refrain from using tripods during crowded times and avoid occupying the same location for extended periods. Drone use is prohibited.
Taking Out Trash
There are no trash cans on the grounds. Visitors are requested to take all trash with them. Please practice courteous tourism to preserve the beautiful landscape.
Prohibition of Plant Collection
Taking autumn leaves or plants from the grounds is prohibited. Please limit yourself to photography and leave nature as it is.
Consideration for Local Residents
The Keisokuji area is also a residential neighborhood. Avoid behavior that disturbs local residents, such as noise or parking on streets. Use designated parking areas and enjoy your visit quietly.
Best Seasons to Visit Keisokuji
Autumn Foliage Season (Mid-November – Early December)
The peak season when most tourists visit, allowing maximum appreciation of Keisokuji’s attractions. The scattered foliage known as a “red carpet” is magnificent. However, expect crowding.
New Green Season (May-June)
While not as famous as the foliage, the new green season offers beautiful scenery. The approach path’s greenery is vivid and provides a quiet walking experience, making it a hidden gem season.
Winter (Mid-December – February)
Keisokuji covered in snow also has appeal. With fewer visitors, you can experience history in silence. However, extra caution is needed for footing when snow is present.
Cultural Properties and Buddhist Statues at Keisokuji
Most of the Buddhist statues originally installed at Keisokuji have been moved to Kohokukaku and Yoishirokaku.
Eleven-Faced Kannon Bodhisattva Standing Statue
A nationally designated Important Cultural Property believed to date from the late Heian period. Notable for its graceful form and serene expression.
Other Cultural Properties
Kohokukaku and Yoishirokaku house numerous valuable Buddhist statues and cultural properties gathered not only from Keisokuji but from other temples on Mount Kodakamiyama. You can view Buddhist statues from the Heian through Kamakura periods, including Medicine Buddha and Amitabha Buddha statues.
These cultural properties are precious legacies that convey the history of Mount Kodakamiyama’s prominence as a sacred site of mountain Buddhism to the present day.
Dining and Souvenirs Near Keisokuji
Local Restaurants
Around Kinomoto Station and along National Route 365, there are restaurants serving meals made with local ingredients. You can enjoy Shiga-specific cuisine such as Omi beef, fermented crucian carp sushi, and lake fish dishes.
Souvenirs
Kinomoto is also a temple town known for “Kinomoto Jizo” with abundant traditional confectioneries and pickled items as souvenirs. “Detchi Yokan” in particular is known as a specialty of Kinomoto.
Conclusion
Keisokuji (Former Hanpukuji) is a historically significant ancient temple founded by Gyoki during the Nara period and revived by Saicho. It flourished as a great temple in medieval times but is now abandoned. However, carefully managed by local residents, it particularly captivates many people as one of Shiga Prefecture’s premier destinations during autumn foliage season.
The red carpet woven by approximately 200 maple trees, the historical atmosphere created by moss-covered steps and stone walls, and the sense of the past felt in the silence—Keisokuji is a special place where you can simultaneously experience the beauty of nature and the weight of history.
It is accessible from JR Kinomoto Station by bus and on foot, or by car. While the foliage season is crowded, its beauty is well worth seeing. When visiting, remember to follow proper etiquette and show gratitude to local residents, and fully enjoy the charm of this historic place.
By visiting the cultural properties housed in Kohokukaku and Yoishirokaku together with Keisokuji, you can gain a deeper understanding of Keisokuji and Mount Kodakamiyama’s history. Why not visit Keisokuji, which displays different faces in each season?